Winds expected to drop mid next week

July 21, 2017

It appears that there maybe a weather window opening mid next week. It looks like a number of climbers are eyeing this time period to attempt the summit of K2.

In particular it looks like that on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday the winds will be at a low level to enable the climbers to make an attempt. With winds as low as that then it makes a summit possible this year. But there are many other factors, including the unpredictable weather, that will be important for any summit attempt. So far no climber has reached camp 4 on the shoulder. The conditions that far up are unknown this year.

 

Mountain Forecast

Badia Bonilla and Mauricio will try for K2 summit on 27th July

July 21, 2017

Badia Bonilla and her husband Mauricio will be trying for the summit of K2 in a weeks time. They have so far reached camp 2 for acclimatization and have been in base camp since because of the bad weather. They will be taking the Abruzzi Ridge.

The weather forecast from Mountain Forecast is good for the early part of the 27th of July. The winds would have dropped and there will be minimal snow according to the forecast. Later that evening it is expected to snow quite heavy. But by then the climbers will have had a chance to reach the summit, and then head back to lower camps. This is of course if the weather forecast is accurate. On the 2 preceding days there is also expected to be low winds. However after the 27 the forecast is quite bad with heavy snow expected on the 28th. Climbers may have to adjust their plans according to the weather, and which might change as it gets closer to those dates.

Badia Bonilla and Mauricio

Parore tells more details about summit push

July 21, 2017

Former New Zealand test cricketer Adam Parore has share more details on the summit push in the next week by Himalayan Experience. He said that tomorrow that Sherpas will start a push up the Cesen route. They will carry more equipment to C3. Then they will start to establish a camp at C4 on the shoulder. Whilst they are doing that, other climbers will transport oxygen and other supplies from C2. They are hoping that by the 25th that the route to C4 will be fixed. Then the bottleneck will be fixed with ropes on the 26th. They are then hoping for a summit day on the 28th of July. They will be expecting other climbers from the Abruzzi Ridge to join them on this summit.

He said that he was in good shape. His only worry is blistered feet.

Adam Parore Instagram

 

Himalayan Experience hopes to summit K2 on 28th July

July 20, 2017

Despite some bad weather in recent days, Himalayan Experience are still hopeful of summiting K2 at the end of July. They have been up to some camps on the Cesen in the last 5 days. 8 of their climbers including 5 HAPs went up to camp 2. They cleaned up a now defunct camp 1 and moved equipment to camp 2. Then all of these climbers went to camp 3 and carried equipment there. They would have wanted to stay at camp 3 but the weather was poor so they returned to base camp. They managed to go up K2 when other expeditions on the Abruzzi Ridge havnt been able to go up in the last 5 days. 

They also lent about 250m to Dreamers Destination expedition led by Mingma G. He lent this because it is believed that the massive avalanche wiped out much equipment and ropes around camp 3. He also said it was in their self interest because he is hoping both expeditions reach camp 4 at the same time. This will make a summit attempt more likely to be successful. 

This expedition are basing their expected chance of making a summit push on recent forecasts. But these forecast can change. 

Himalayan Experience

Weather delays Sherpas

July 18, 2017

There was a plan for some Sherpas to go up the Abruzzi Ridge and assess the damage from a recent massive avalanche. However, there has been snow falling and this has made them cancel their plans. Mingma G reported this on Facebook. This means that no one knows if there has been any damage to their camps and equipment up the Abruzzi Ridge. The climbers on the Cesen route have not had this to worry about.

He said that the earliest day that the weather will allow them to climb up is on Saturday 22nd July. According to Mountain Forecast, Saturday appears to be a better day to climb. It is predicting a day without snow. Mingma G did say that time was running out.

Mountain Forecast

Climbers wait to see what damage on Abruzzi Ridge from avalanche

July 17, 2017

In recent days there has been a huge avalanche down the Abruzzi Ridge. Most of the climbers have been on this route. A team of Sherpas went up to inspect the possible damage. But they turned back because of poor weather with strong winds.

Today another group of Sherpas will attempt to go up and assess the damage. In particular they are interested in inspecting camp 3, where the avalanche seemed to have ripped through. This is the new camp 3 position after the normally used camp 3 was considered too dangerous after avalanches in recent years.

The other climbers are just waiting for another weather window to start their attempt at the summit. Some of the climbers from Furtenbach Adventures have moved over from Broad Peak, after some of them successfully made the summit. They would have already acclimatized and would be hoping for a summit push at roughly the same time as other climbers on K2. At the moment they are recovering in base camp.

Fears camp 3 and ropes lost on Abruzzi

July 15, 2017

Mingma G has said that a huge avalanche swept down the Abruzzi Ridge today in the morning. Other climbers were also witness from base camp. It was so big that they fear that the ropes higher up and camp 3 could be lost.

They had gone near camp 4 on their last trip up. But they fear for the ropes and gear that was left there too. Tomorrow a Sherpa team will go up to assess the damage.

At the moment the weather is not good with snow every evening and high winds forecast for the summit. So the climbers are waiting for another weather window. But first they will need to see what damage has been done.

 

Climbers resting at base camp after acclimatisation 

July 15, 2017

The climbers have now returned on both the Cesen route and Abruzzi Ridge and are now back at base camp. 

On the Cesen Route, Himalayan Experience made it to camp 3 on K2. On the way up they were hoping to salvage some equip,net form the 2015 expedition on the same route. They had mixed success with this. They did manage to salvage a number of oxygen bottles which will mean less to carry up to higher camps. On the other hand, much inside their old tents were frozen solid and could not be salvaged. 

Russell Bryce did mention a huge avalanche that came down one night near this route. He said it came from over 8000m high. Even though their base camp was over 2km away from where the Avalanche came down, the tents managed to get sprinkled with snow. He said that a tent, near where the Avalanche came down, at what he calls crampon point, was swept 100m. This was eventually recovered. 

On the Abruzzi Ridge climbers have managed to make it to camp 3. This would be the new camp 3 slightly below the old one. Vanessa O’Brien has at least managed it to camp 2.  On her Facebook page she has photos of herself climbing up to this point. There is one photo of her at House Chimney. 

Himalayan Experience

Vanessa O’Brien Twitter

Adam Parore reaches near camp 3

July 13, 2017

Former New Zealand test cricketer Adam Parore made it to near camp 3 on the Cesen Route up K2. Weather had been good for a few days to enable him to reach this high. He described conditions as beautiful but also very steep. He said that he was the cook. There is not much cooking though as the climbers were only after water heated by the bunsen burner or soup. Physically he said that he felt very strong on this trip up. 

He is now resting at base camp. And awaiting another weather window to attempt a summit push. 

Adam Parore Instagram 

Strang arrives back at base camp

July 11, 2017

Fredrik Strang has arrived back at K2 base camp. He said that he will tell more details later. He had been up to a camp that they are now making at C3. This is a new place that they are placing C3 which is below the old C3. 

This trip up K2 would have given him and others acclimatisation for their first attempt at the summit when there is another weather window. 
Fredrik Strang Facebook