Archive for August, 2011

K2 summit pictures posted

August 27, 2011

Both Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Maxut Zumayev have posted summit pictures from when they reached the top of K2. The pictures were taken at sunset. In on e of them Kaltenbrunner, Zumayev and Pivtsov were together in the one photo. The photos show that all 4 were at the summit at once. Since Kaltenbrunner was the first there, she must have waited a short time for the others to arrive.

Sources

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

Kazpatriot

 

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K2 climbers at base camp

August 26, 2011

All of the expedition who participated on K2’s north ridge this tyear are at base camp.The GPS from Maxut Zumayev shows them at about 3800m. They will be headed back by camels very shortly.

K2 summit climbers on way to advanced base camp

August 25, 2011

The climbers who made the summit of K2 on Tuesday – Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Darek Zaluski, Maxut Zumayev and Vassily Pivtsov – have descended the north ridge of K2 and are on their way to advanced base camp. This camp would have been largely if not all dismantled by both Ralf Dujmovits and  Tommy Heinrich in preparation for the expeditions departure. Next stop will be base camp at about 3800m where camels will be waiting to take them back.

Last night they were descending between camps 2 and 1. It is not known at the moment where they stayed last night.

Below is a screen shot of their present location in Google Maps.


K2 climbers reach camp 3

August 24, 2011

The climbers who made the summit of K2 yesterday – Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Darek Zaluski, Maxut Zumayev and Vassily Pivtsov – have reached camp 3 on their way down K2. Kaltenbrunner has prepared some soup for the climbers. Their aim is to make camp 1 at the start of the north ridge today.

Source: Kazpatriot

All four climbers move to camp 4 on K2

August 24, 2011

All of the climbers who made the summit yesterday have made it to camp 4 at about 7950m on K2. They left the 8300m bivouac at 6am today and made it to camp 4 at 9am.

The climbers are well and are heading as far down K2 as they can go. Along the way they will be taking the tents and gear with them at each camp.

Source: Kazpatriot

Update

Ralf Dujmovits has updated Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner’s website to say that Kaltenbrunner went to camp 4 last night after midnight, and was followed later by Darek Zaluski. Both Maxut Zumayev and Vassily Pivtsov stayed in the bivouac overnight before heading down to camp 4 today. Dujmovits and  Tommy Heinrich have been dismantling tents at advanced base camp( Italian camp).

All four of the summit climbers are expected to arrive at camp 1 today and spend the night there. After that they will have to negotiate their way to base camp( Chinese camp) at about 3800m where the camels will be waiting for their departure.

Source: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

Climbers start descending K2 late last night

August 24, 2011

Late last night after making the summit of K2, the climbers reached the bivouac at about 8300m that they had stayed the night in before. Three of the climbers – Darek Zaluski, Maxut Zumayev and Vassily Pivtsov – were considering whether to stay there for the night or head to camp 4. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner had made up her mind and headed to camp 4.

They had been climbing in the dark for a number of hours when they reached the bivouac tent. Zumayev and Pivtsov had reached the summit of K2 just after the sun set.

Source: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

Below is screen shot of where Zumayev was located late last night.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner summits K2 and claims history

August 24, 2011

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has made the summit of K2 to not only claim a cherished dream of climbing the mountain but also become the first woman to have climbed all 14 8000m mountains without oxygen.

It has been 13 years since she first made the summit of her first 8000m mountain Cho Oyu. It was not till she was 32 and had climbed the difficult Nanga Parbat that she decided to be a professional mountaineer.

Climbing on K2 she has seen some tragedies. In 2009 she was watching Michele Fait ski down a lower section on K2 when he fell and died. A year later she was climbing with Fait’s 2009 climbing and skiing partner Fredrik Ericsson on the bottleneck when on summit day he fell past her and died. This death had a big impact on her throughout the year.

The successful summits of the 8000m mountains are below:

Summit number Date 8000m Mountain Height Oxygen
1 May 6, 1998 Cho Oyu 8201 No oxygen
2 May 14, 2001 Makalu 8485 No oxygen
3 May 10, 2002 Manaslu 8163 No oxygen
4 June 20, 2003 Nanga Parbat 8126 No oxygen
5 May 28, 2004 Annapurna 8091 No oxygen
6 July 25, 2004 Gasherbrum I 8068 No oxygen
7 May 7, 2005 Shishapangma 8013 No oxygen
8 July 21, 2005 Gasherbrum II 8034 No oxygen
9 May 14, 2006 Kangchenjunga 8586 No oxygen
10 July 12, 2007 Broad Peak 8051 No oxygen
11 May 1, 2008 Dhaulagiri 8167 No oxygen
12 May 20, 2009 Lhotse 8516 No oxygen
13 May 23, 2010 Mount Everest 8848 No oxygen
14 August 23, 2011 K2 8611 No oxygen

Kaltenbrunner attempted K2 in four different years finally being successful in 2011. Before the successful attempt on the north ridge of K2 she had attempted unsuccessfully the Cesen route on the Pakistan side. Below is a table showing the attempts on K2 by Kaltenbrunner.

Year Route Height
2007 Cesen 8100
2009 Cesen 8300
2010 Cesen 8300
2011 North Ridge 8611 – summit

After summiting K2 Maxut Zumayev has now made the summit of all the 14 8000m mountains

August 24, 2011

Maxut Zumayev has completed climbing all 14 8000m mountains by making the summit of K2. He has done this without using oxygen. By doing this he has joined a select group of climbers who have made the summit of these mountains without oxygen.

Below is a table showing all of the 14 8000m mountains that he has completed.

Summit number  Year 8000m Mountain Height (metres) Route Oxygen
1 2001 Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum 1) 8068 Japanese Couloir No oxygen
2 2002 Gasherbrum 2 8034 Normal No oxygen
3 2002 Kangchenjunga 8586 Normal, South-West No oxygen
4 2002 Shishapangma – Main Summit 8013 Normal No oxygen
5 2003 Nanga Parbat 8126 Kinshoffer route No oxygen
6 2003 Broad Peak 8051 Normal No oxygen
7 2004 Makalu 8485 West Ridge No oxygen
8 2005 Cho Oyu 8201 Normal No oxygen
9 2006 Annapurna 8091 Normal No oxygen
10 2006 Dhaulagiri 8167 Normal No oxygen
11 2007 Everest 8848 Normal route from Tibet No oxygen
12 2008 Manaslu 8163 Normal No oxygen
13 2010 Lhotse 8516 No oxygen
14 2011 K2 8611 North Ridge No oxygen

It has taken Maxut 6 years of attempts on K2 to reach the summit.

Vassily Pivtsov summits K2 and completes all 14 8000m mountains

August 24, 2011

Vassily Pivtsov has made the summit of the last 8000m mountain by reaching the top of K2. He has done this without oxygen and joined a select group of climbers who have climbed all 14 8000m mountains. 26 have now accomplished this.

He started with the summit of Gasherbrum 1 in 2000 and then the nearby Gasherbrum 2 in the same summer. And by making the summit of K2 on the 23rd August he has completed all 14 8000m mountains.

Summit number Year 8000m Mountain Height (metres) Route Oxygen
1 2001 Gasherbrum 1( Hidden Peak) 8068 Normal, Japanese Couloir No oxygen
2 2001 Gasherbrum 2 8034 Normal No oxygen
3 2002 Kangchenjunga 8586 Normal, South-West No oxygen
4 2002 Shishapangma 8046 Normal No oxygen
5 2003 Nanga Parbat 8126 Kinshoffer route No oxygen
6 2003 Broad Peak 8051 Normal No oxygen
7 2004 Makalu 8485 West Ridge No oxygen
8 2005 Cho Oyu 8201 Normal No oxygen
9 2006 Dhaulagiri 8167 Normal No oxygen
10 2006 Annapurna 8091 Normal (French) route No oxygen
11 2007 Everest 8848 Normal route from Tibet  ?
12 2008 Manaslu 8163 Normal No oxygen
13 2010 Lhotse 8516 No oxygen
14 2011 K2 8611 North Ridge No oxygen

This was the 7th year that Vassiliy has been to K2 and attempted to climb it. Vassiliy’s attempts on K2 are below.

1. 2003 – Polish Winter Expedition –  North Ridge

2. 2003 – Classic route

3. 2005 – Classic route

4. 2007 – Classic North Ridge

5. 2009 – Classic route

6. 2010 – Classic route

7. 2011 – North Ridge

Kaltenbrunner, Zaluski, Zumayev and Pivtsov all summit K2

August 24, 2011

All four climbers who set off for the summit of K2 today have reached the top of K2. These climbers were: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Darek Zaluski, Maxut Zumayev and Vassily Pivtsov. Kaltenbrunner was the first to arrive at the summit at 1818. She was followed by Maxut Zumayev and Vassily Pivtsov and then finally Darek Zaluski.

Kaltenbrunner,  Zumayev  and Pivtsov by making the summit of K2 have now all completed 14 8000m mountains. Kaltenbrunner became the first female to have made the summit of these 14 8000m mountains without oxygen. Edurne Pasaban was the first woman to reach all 14 8000m mountains but she used oxygen on some of these.

Before today there have only been 23 climbers who have accomplished climbing these mountains. Now there are 26 who have climbed all 8000m mountains. There are also 4 that are disputed. Those who have climbed them without oxygen now number 13.

Source: Wikipedia

All four will have to descend in the twilight as the sun set at 1834. They may have to descend in the dark.

Source: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner