Archive for October, 2009

Out There reviews K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain

October 27, 2009

Out There has reviewed Ed Viesturs book about K2 called: K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain. The review mentions that Viesturs feels that he got away with one when he made the summit of K2 in 1992. He has never felt comfortable with the decision he made to go to the summit that day.

The book goes in to the history of mountaineering on K2 and talks about some of the most famous climbing incidents. One story in the book is a short account of when Australian Greg Child made the summit in 1990. Near the top with storms circling the mountain, he asked the others if they should go for the top. They decided they would as it might be their last chance at it. Greg Child made it, but on the way down was struggling severely in very difficult conditions. He was crawling on his hands and knees as he made his way back to the high camp. A less sturdy climber, Ed Viesturs says, would have died in that situation.

Out There review


Cecilie Skog still misses husband after death on K2 in 2008

October 27, 2009

Norwegian Cecilie Skog has talked about how she has found it hard after her husband died on K2 in 2008. It has been 15 months since 11 people, including her husband, died near the Bottleneck of this mountain. She reached the summit of K2. Her husband did not go to the summit. He had waited on the Travers for his wife to come back down the mountain. A huge ice serac though fell above this place and she watched her husband plummet down the mountain.

She said that she feels most alive in difficult conditions. The snow and the fierce winds while camping in these places is what she dreams of doing.

Next month she plans to go to the South Pole. It is a 1300km journey. She is going with Ryan Waters. They will both ski on their journey.

Explorersweb interview with Ceclia Skog

Greg Mortenson receives honour from media

October 24, 2009

U.S. News & World Report magazine has awarded Greg Mortenson for being one of the best leaders in the U.S.A. 20 people were mentioned as being the best leaders in the country.

The magazine said that Mortenson has promoted peace through his efforts to start schools in the remote parts of Pakistan.

Mortenson was saved by villagers not far from K2. He had failed in his bid to climb the mountain, and had wondered off far from the mountain, not knowing where he was. He noticed that the village children were writing in the dirt with sticks, since they did not have books or schools. He vowed to come back and repay the village with saving his life by starting a school. Since then he has started many schools and written a book on this experience.

USNEWS article on Greg Mortenson

Ed Viesturs reads from K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain

October 23, 2009

Ed Viesturs will be reading from his recently released book called: K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain on Monday the 26th of October. The talk will be held at the Town Hall, 1119 Eighth Ave., Seattle. There will be a $5 charge to attend.

Edurne Pasaban plans spring assault on last 2 8000m mountains

October 23, 2009

Edurne Pasaban has plans to climb the last two mountains she needs to complete all 14  8000m mountains. She plans first to climb Annapurna in the spring of 2010. Then she is considering climbing Shishapangma. She had recently made an  attempt on this mountain, but poor weather conditions prevented a serious attempt.

It seems as if it is heating up who will become the first woman to conquer all 14 8000m mountains. With Miss Oh Eun-Sun needing just Annapurna, and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner needing the highest two to complete them all, it may depend upon the conditions as to who manages this feat first. All three women though have formidable mountains to climb first.

Oh Eun-Sun cancels Annapurna summit bid

October 19, 2009

Oh Eun-Sun has canceled her latest attempt of Annapurna. Apparently the winds were too strong for an attempt of the summit. There were reported winds of 100km/h. She and her companions had set off for the top on Sunday.

She plans to try again in the spring of 2010. If she make it to the top she will be the first woman to climb all 14 8000m mountains. The other 2 women – Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Edurne Pasaban – who have climbed 12 of these mountains are not expected to have tried the 2 they need by this time. She reached the summit of K2 in 2007 with oxygen.

Mounteverest link

Ron Hoglin to return to K2

October 18, 2009

Ron Hoglin will attempt K2 again he has confirmed after this years failed summit bid. He was one of those on the final push for the summit on K2 on August the 4th.

He talked about the trip to K2 and the climb up the mountain. The plane ride to Skardu was extremely scary. He said that before the airport there were mountains all around, and then all of a sudden the airport would appear.

On the walk to K2, it was about 115kms. They had to use porters to carry about 20-25kgs each. No animals were used to carry the gear.

Climbing up K2 got very steep and technical from about halfway between C1 and C2. They needed to use ropes and were using ascenders.

They only had a one day opportunity to go for the summit because of the forecast weather conditions. On the day they intended to reach the summit he said that he should have left earlier than he did. The problem was that his toes were extremely cold. It would take him over 2 hours to warm them in the morning. This is a problem that he did not have when he was climbing Everest. However, he did say that conditions were perfect on the morning of the final part of the climb. The moon was out, so there were clear conditions even in the dark.

As for the final push up K2, he said what others have said – the snow was very deep and they were going too slow in these conditions. However, he felt fine that they turned around and did not go for the summit. All it meant was that he would be back for another attempt. He did not say when this attempt will be.

He is a resident of Hope, British Columbia, in Canada. He has previously summited Everest.

At the moment he is running a shuttle bus and the snowplough in Manning Park, British Columbia.

BC local news

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner to attempt K2 in 2010

October 15, 2009

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has revealed that she will be back to try K2 again in 2010. She has previously tried twice to climb the mountain unsuccessfully. So this will be her third attempt. She said that after the failed attempt last year on K2, it was, “Clear to me that I would be back.”

Next year she will begin her campaign by climbing Everest in spring. Then she will set her sights on K2 at around June. She has been preparing for these climbs by climbing in the Alps, running and mountain biking.

This year she showed she had the ability and physical strength to climb K2, by reaching the Traverse at 8300m. It was only the deep snow and late time of day that prevented her going further.

She needs to climb the 2 tallest mountains in the world next year to complete all 14 8000m mountains. Her husband – Ralf Dujmovits – will be accompanying her.

English news from Austria

Nick Rice has equipment stolen on Shishapangma

October 13, 2009

Nick Rice and his climbing partners had their equipment stolen from high camps on Shishapangma. He and his partners had been hoping for a summit push at around the 15th of October. However, on the climb up the mountain he was horrified to find that all the equipment was gone from camp 1.
“Upon arriving to Camp I, we were horrified to discover that someone had taken down our tent and all our equipment,” Rice said.

They were then forced to abandon their summit attempt because of the missing equipment. Also initially the equipment from camps 2 and 3 were thought to have disappeared due to the high winds blowing them away. But he now believes that they might have been stolen.

In total they lost $10,000 in equipment. Also they been preparing for 2 months. So this has been a great disappointment to him.

Rice had luckily escaped with his life last year on K2 after an incident delayed him climbing when the ice serac fell. It is hoped that this setback does not affect his plans to return to K2 next year as planned.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner gives talk about her adventures in the Himalayas

October 13, 2009

Kaltenbrunner has recently given a talk at Rosenheim in Germany about her climbing the 8000m mountains. This talk was sponsored by Swisscanto which is a bank for investment and pension services. It was intended as a motivational speech for the employees. “Everyone has something that drives them,” Kaltenbrunner said.

Slideshows and films were shown from her expeditions. She talked about being swept away by an avalanche on Dhaulagiri in 2007. Also  she talked about how persistence led to her summiting Lhotse. Her experiences on K2 were talked about, with her having to turn back very close to the summit this year.