Archive for August, 2009

Juanito Oiarzabal’s 2004 K2 summit still affects him

August 26, 2009

After Juanito Oiarzabal returned from K2 in 2004 it took him 3 years to recover. He nearly lost his life while making the summit. His feet were frostbitten and he lost most of toes.

That was the second summit of K2 for Juanito Oiarzabal. He had previously climbed it in 1994.

Now he wants to climb more 8000m mountains for a second time. He has already climbed all of the 8000m mountains and done 7 of the, including K2, twice.

Story about Juanito Oiarzabal


Jorge Egocheaga stopped 12m from K2 summit

August 20, 2009

In a stunning announcement Jorge Egocheaga has stated that he stopped just short of the summit of K2 last month. News had filtered through that he had reached the summit from Martin Ramos, a fellow climber on K2. However, there were many doubts that he had in fact done this. The difficulty other climbers were having and the deep snow meant that many even there did not believe him.

Jorge Egocheaga said he stopped short of the summit because of what he found when he got there. He said that it was covered in a hollow wind-slab. When he stepped on it, it gave a crunching sound that gave him thought to not go any further.

He says that he has a picture of when he was 12m from the summit. It has a GPS reading of it too. He initially thought that being 12m from the summit was as good as being on top. Thus the confusion. Martin Ramos saw the picture allegedly and thought he was on the summit top.

Unfortunately for Jorge Egocheaga his effort will not be considered a summit. Till pictures are produced with the GPS not even that he got that far will be accepted.

The climb he took was the most controversial of the K2 summer. A fellow climber who was going up K2 at the same time as him, noticed that Jorge Egocheaga was not in the tents at C3 when he awoke. He was told that Jorge Egocheaga had left for the summit on a solo effort. He thought Jorge Egocheaga was mad to try on that day.

As for not reaching the last 12m on K2, if true it would show that even the summit, which usually is easier ground to cover than much of K2, was extremely difficult this year.

Oscar Perez rescue called off

August 17, 2009

The rescue attempt of Oscar Perez on Latok has been called. A number of factors has led to this. The weather had turned very poor and visibility was low. Helicopters could no longer travel to the area. Also the number of days that he had been stranded above 6500m meant that there were minimal chances he was alive. He had no tent, and only a sleeping bag to shield himself from the environment. Finally, the climb even in good weather is very hard. In bad weather the danger to the rescuers was too great.

This was very disappointing to all rescuers. Amongst the climbers was Fabrizio Zangrilli from the Field Touring Alpine, who had recently led an unsuccessful attempt of K2.

Field Touring Alpine

Kazem Faridian released from gaol

August 17, 2009

Kazem Faridian has been released from gaol in Iran. He had been held after the Iran protests against the recent election. Apparently he is healthy and doing well.

He reached the summit of K2 in 2007.

George Dijmarescu left for dead by another climber on K2

August 16, 2009

Earlier this month George was left to battle his way out of a crevasse after being ignored by another climber. He feel into it while climbing to the shoulder on K2. At the time he did not know how far he had fallen. He battled to get out but the exhaustion caused by the lack of oxygen at this height caused him to struggle.

Another climber passed closely by, about 10m from where he had fallen into the crevasse. He called out to this climber and the climber turned around. George believed he heard his plea for help. But he just kept climbing towards the summit. This left George, believing that he could be in serious trouble, to find his way out of the crevasse. Eventually he did, but it needed some serious effort.

You can find the rest of the article at the link below.

Everest news

Fabrizio Zangrilli leads rescue of stranded climber

August 14, 2009

Fabrizio is amongst a group of climbers who are trying to rescue another climber high on Latok 2. This is a mountain in the Karakorum. He had been planning to leave and go to Skardu but instead has stayed to help a fellow climber.

Oscar Perez became stranded on Latok 2 after injuring himself a number of days ago. He is believed to be stranded at about 6500m. They had been trying to climb a difficult and unclimbed route on this mountain. Only climbers who have been acclimatized and very experienced are able to mount a rescue at this height and difficulty.

Recently Fabrizio led a team from Field Touring Alpine on an unsuccessful attempt of K2. There were no summits of K2 this year.

Field Touring Alpine

Kazem Faridian thought to be jailed in Iran

August 14, 2009

Various sources are reporting that Kazem Faridian has been jailed in Iran after the recent protests. It has been reported that he was amongst the protesters against the recent election.

In 2007 he reached the summit of K2.

Bogomolov, Vassily, and Zhumayev end K2 expedition

August 9, 2009

There will be no successful summits of K2 this year. The final group at the base camp of K2 are getting ready to leave. They have called for porters to carry their gear out.

This was Zhumayev and Bogomolov’s fourth unsuccessful attempt to climb K2. This was Vassily’s fifth unsuccessful attempt to climb the mountain.

The weather had been poor since their attempt the other day to climb to the summit.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner says she will be back to K2

August 9, 2009

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has said that she will return to climb K2. However, she also added that she does not know at this time when she will be back.

K2 was just too dangerous this year above the Bottleneck. A combination of deep snow and the late time of day turned back all climbers.

She has climbed 12 8000m mountains and needs just K2 and Everest to complete all 14.

Her website is not in English but there are some great pictures from high up on K2.

Gerlinde’s website

Gerfield Goschl looks back on failed K2 summit

August 8, 2009

Gerfield on his website reflected on the final try for the K2 summit. Some of the points he talked about are as follows.

There were 14 climbers from different camps and countries that were involved in the final push for the summit. It wasn’t till 8200m on the Bottleneck that the magnitude of the climb started to be realized. The snow was feathery and rope was needed in this section. At around 2pm Sepp turned around and went back to camp. But it wasn’t till 2:30 that everyone else realized that they would not make it to the summit in a safe time. The snow was deep and was slowing their progress. He said that the summit could have conditions that could prove hazardous if they continued that late.

He was disappointed because of the perfect weather. But he was happy to make it back healthy along with everyone else.

After the climb Gerfield invited Gerlinde, the Kazakhs, Russians, Koreans and the Americans for a debriefing about what happened.

His website is not in English but there are some great pictures of this attempt.

Gerfried Goschl’s photos and website