Archive for June, 2010

Meagan McGrath makes it to C2 on Broad Peak

June 30, 2010

Meagan McGrath has made her latest audio dispatch from Broad Peak.  She reports that on the 26th of June that she and Fabrizio climbed to C1. Then the next day he and a number of other porters fixed the ropes for 600m to near C2. While Fabrizio set up the ropes, McGrath fixed some tents at C1.On the  27th she headed up to C2 with some of the gear that they will be using.

For the last 2 days she has been recovering at base camp with the others. On the 30th of June, she and other members of FTA will be heading up to C1. While they acclimatize there, she and Fabrizio will head to C2 with some of the porters.


George Dijmarescu arrives at K2 base camp

June 29, 2010

After a long march, George Dijmarescu has arrived at the starting point for climbing K2. Along with him are 5 members of his expedition including 2 Nepalese Sherpas.

Last year Dijmarescu tried unsuccessfully to climb K2 and was lucky at one point to escape with his life.

Pompili has hard night sleeping at C1

June 29, 2010

Giuseppe Pompili said that he had a tough night sleeping at 6000m. It took him just over 3 hours to go from base camp to C1. He said that those that were less experienced at climbing at this height would take longer.

Also they did not use the ropes that the Koreans had put in place. This issue was resolved though after a meeting with them. he said that there have been meetings with team leaders to resolve the issues of cooperation. It looks like the teams are going to cooperate so that less equipment will have to carried up to the higher parts of K2.

Source: Giuseppi Pompili

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner at Askole on way to K2

June 29, 2010

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has made significant progress on her way to K2. She went from Skardu to Askole in a jeep. From here it will be trekking to the base camp of K2.

Tomorrow will be a day for Kaltenbrunner. Next she will be crossing the Baltoro glacier. She expects to be at the base camp of K2 in another 4 days.

Italian expedition to set off for K2

June 29, 2010

There will be an Italian expedition that will arrive at base camp at K2 on July 10. Mario Merelli plans to goto K2 and climb it without oxygen. He said that he has no fear of going to this mountain. Mark Frank will be his climbing partner.

Meagan McGrath reports from Broad Peak

June 28, 2010

Meagan McGrath has reported about her experiences on the 25th of June. She said that she, another guide and 5 porters made their way to C1 on Broad peak. The porters laid all of the rope. Thus they now have fixed rope all the way to C1. One of the guides named Chris made sure that all of the ropes were secure. McGrath was basically observing and learning.

On the 26th She had planned to join Fabrizio and others and sleep at C1. Then the next day the plan was to fix all of the lines to C2.

The conditions are icy, she said. There are 19 members who are part of this expedition from FTA.

Source: Mp3 from Meagan McGrath

Fredrik Ericcson and Trey Cook head back from C1

June 28, 2010

Fredrick Ericsson and Trey Cook have headed back down from C1 after poor weather on K2.

When they awoke in the morning at C1 on the Cesen route, they were awoken to a storm. This caused them to second guess whether they would make it to C2. Ericsson considers the Cesen route more difficult than the Abruzzi Ridge. And that is why 80% of climbers on K2 go on that route instead.

They also wanted to ski from C1 back to base camp. But with the worsening weather they decided to trek it instead and this took much more time.

Source: Fredrik Ericsson

Pompili, Koreans, and Leila Esfandyari arrive at C1 on K2

June 28, 2010

There have been a number of climbers that have made it to C1 on K2. They have been going on the Abruzzi Spur.

They found that there was plenty of snow on the way up. The Koreans asked that Giuseppe Pompili not to use their ropes. Giuseppe Pompili also made some way towards C2. They had a chance to free some old ropes from previous years expeditions that had become thawed with ice.

In contrast Fredrik Ericsson and Trey Cook have been making their way up the Cesen route.

Source: Giuseppe Pompili

Ericsson and Cook make their way to C1 on Cesen route on K2

June 27, 2010

According to Giuseppe Pompili, both Fredrik Ericsson and Trey Cook have been making progress from base camp to C1 on the Cesen route on K2. They would be the first climbers to be making an attempt on K2 this year. This route is an easier one than the Abruzzi Ridge, but only under the right conditions. It is still steep and in places quite hard.

He also mentioned that there might be a delay of a few days to updating his blog because they do not have enough electricity. All of the groups there have been having problems with electricity because it has been snowing and thus their solar panels have not been recharging their equipment.

Pompili hopes to be soon going the same route as Ericsson and Cook.

Source: Giuseppe Pompili

Field Touring Alpine arrive at base camp

June 27, 2010

Field Touring Alpine have arrived at base camp for Broad Peak. Their first goal will be to make an attempt on this mountain before turning their attention to K2.

They have been feeling so good that they have made much more progress than they had thought. On the 24th Chris, Meagan and 5 high altitude porters setup up completely the route to C1. They mentioned that quite a few groups are not using ropes this year, so that would mean that all members of their group will have to help setting up the ropes.

The plan over late June is as follows:

  • Ben, Rob and Brian will carry gear necessary to C1
  • On the 26th and 27th Fabrizio and some porters will fix the route to C2
  • On the 27th, 28th, and 29th members will get acclimatization at C1

Source: Filed Touring Alpine