Archive for September, 2010

Field Touring Alpine taking interest for 2011 K2 expedition

September 29, 2010

Field Touring Alpine have said that they have been getting lots of interest to go back to K2 in 2011. This interest has led them to take start seeing if there is ultimately sufficient interest to go back. If they do go to K2 in 2011 it will be as an extension of their Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak expeditions.

Those that are interested in climbing K2 with this company can contact them at info@fieldtouring.com.

Presently Field Touring Alpine are trying to climb Cho Oyu. Fabrizio Zangrilli is leading the expedition on this mountain. There have been some avalanches that have caused problems for the sherpas setting up the ropes from other expeditions there. A number have been injured. They are still hoping to make a summit push on the 1st of October.

Source: Field Touring Alpine

Kaltenbrunner did not think the summit push was too risky

September 29, 2010

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner doe not consider that she was taking a great risk when climbing with Fredrik Ericsson on the final summit push. She said that the conditions were reasonable and that they were being cautious. It was just bad luck that Ericsson fell, she said.

Recently she has been climbing in the Swiss Alps. Climbing is a very natural thing for her to do, she says.

Now and again she thinks back to K2. She imagines that she is really back there. At the moment she does not know if she will go back and make another attempt. She is trying to get away from all that happened there for the moment before she thinks about it again.

In October she and her husband will be going to the Papua province in Indonesia to climb the Carstensz Pyramid. This mountain has been on some of the 7 summits lists as the tallest in Oceania.

Source: News.at (translated)



Don Bowie to do presentation about climbing Karakoram mountains

September 20, 2010

Don Bowie will do a presentation shortly about the experiences he has had climbing the Karakoram mountains in Pakistan without using oxygen. Amongst the mountains that he has climbed is K2, which he did successfully in 2007. He will also talk about climbing Gasherbrum 1 this year.

The talk will be on the 23rd of September at the REI flagship store in Seattle.

Source: PRlog

Alan Hinkes summits all of counties highest mountains in England

September 19, 2010

Alan Hinkes has completed climbing all of the highest peaks in each of the counties in England. He had set himself a 10 day time limit for this feat. There were 39 peaks in all. In the end it took him only 1 week to complete all of them. He believes that he completed all of these climbs faster than anyone else has done before him.

This was a dream that he had been wanting to do since he was young. He said,”

“Living in North Yorkshire I spend so much of my free time climbing the area so the chance to set a record like this one in my own backyard was a challenge I couldn’t pass up.”

He climbed K2 in 1995 after several attempts.

Source: BBC

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner says K2 has many faces

September 14, 2010

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has recently given a lecture about her recent expedition. In this lecture she talked about expeditions to Lhotse, Everest and her most recent one, K2.  She gave the talk in the

Loisach hall. The talk went for about 2 hours. There were pictures and slides.

When talking about K2 she said that the mountain had many faces. This year it showed its tougher side.

Also she showed pictures of her expedition to K2. There was a last photo of Fredrik Ericsson before he was to later die.

Source: Merkur Online

Tom Ballard may make K2 attempt in December

September 11, 2010

Despite there being no official word on when Tom Ballard is going to K2 there is a report that he may be going in December. This is Derbyshire website said that he has set December for his attempt on the mountain. The high mountains do not scare him they have reported.

It has been reported that for the last 5 weeks Ballard has been in France training. His sister and dad are there also. In October they say he will head to Switzerland before leaving to attempt K2.

His dad said this about the coming expedition, “We are beginning to look forward to the K2 expedition, especially Tom.”

Ballard wants to be the first person to climb K2 in the winter. No one has climbed any of the 5 8000m mountains in Pakistan in the winter months. Others will be trying other peaks coming up, and maybe the Polish expedition could make an attempt also. He is 21 years old.

Source: This is Derbyshire

More reaction from Christian Stangl’s admission he faked his K2 summit

September 10, 2010

Fellow climbers and sponsors have expressed further opinion to the revelation that Christian Stangl admitted he did not make the summit of K2.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has found it hard to explain how Christian Stangl could fake his ascent of K2. It was inexplicable to her. She personally knows him.

Another climbing legend Peter Habeler does not know how Stangl came to make up this nonsense. He had always thought that a summit photo was proof and should be accepted. Up until recently he had believed that Stangl had made the summit.

Two of his sponsors have decided to stick with him. They are disappointed with what has happened. Knauf said that their support of Stangl would depend on his own plans to keep climbing. Another sponsor Mammoth said that they will not be trying to get their sponsorship back off Stangl.

Source: Nachrichten (in German)

The real reason Christian Stangl came out and admitted he did not make K2 summit

September 8, 2010

Explorersweb may have been the reason that Stangl ended up holding his press conference to announce that he had not made the summit of K2. It is possible that what they did ended up forcing Stangl to come out and tell everyone he did not make the summit of K2.

Explorersweb had allowed comments on the picture of Stangl’s claimed summit of K2. What they found in this discussion was that the mountains in the background had looked very similar to a picture taken at base camp 3. This would have been on the Abruzzi Spur. The aspect of the surrounding mountains to Chogolisa in the background was just about the same as in the Stangl summit picture.

Explorersweb sent an email to Stangl the day before he made a public announcement about not making the summit of K2. They told him that they had worked out that the summit picture could only have been taken from much lower down on the mountain.

There was a picture in Jim Haberl’s “K2, Dreams & Reality“which showed a very similar ration of the background mountains. That picture was taken at camp 3. This meant that Stangl’s photo was taken at about the height of base camp 3.

What Explorersweb did next was to email Stangl and get a response before they published their findings. There ended up being no response. However, instead it looks like this forced him to hold a press conference. It has been claimed in newspapers that his girlfriend and family were responsible for convincing him of the need to express his own doubts about making the summit.

The comments on this site have also pointed out that it was taken much lower down than the summit. It was noted by this site too, but felt other evidence of the problems with the photo were stronger to show that the photo was a fake so did not go into detail on this point.

Also it must be pointed out who knows when the summit picture was taken. There was no evidence that he even went up during the period that he says that he was there. This is the third year in a row that he has been on K2, so anytime during this period he could have taken pictures at around that height. This site still believes that the photo had been doctored in Photoshop.

Source: Explorersweb

Messner thinks Stangl may have not been coping

September 8, 2010

In an interview with the Kurier, Reinhold Messner says that only Christian Stangl himself could explain the distorted reality he had of standing on the summit of K2.This is in response to Stangl saying that he hallucinated that he stood on the summit of K2. Though he regards Stangl as one of the best climbers in the world, in terms of mountaineering he was unimportant.

Messner assumed that Stangl had made the summit of K2. If someone says that they made the summit then he accepts that they have done so. Recently, Messner has been telling others how he was impressed with the summit of K2 by Stangl. All of this has changed though with the revelation that Stangl did not make the summit of K2.

Messner wonders what excuses Stangl will come up with in the future about this climb.

Messner believes that Stangl must not have been able to cope if his perception was so wrong. The distortion was really severe in his view of what was happening around him.

Messner does not how Stangl could have mistaken the summit for another part of K2. He said, for example, that the shoulder is flat and could not have been mistaken for the summit.

As for Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Messner is critical because all of the media attention. She does not climb in an alpine style he says, rather there are fixed ropes most of the way up mountains she climbs. This includes K2.

Source: Kurier (in German)

Sponsor regrets Stangl’s deception

September 8, 2010

The reactions of Christian Stangl’s sponsors have already started after his admission that he did not make the summit of K2. It seems that first indications are that there is a mixed reaction from them.

The main sponsor for Stangl is The Mammut Sports Group. They said that they distance themselves from all instances of deception. They regret what has happened with the deception of Stangl.

A sports lawyer said that the sponsor could get their money back if they so wanted. The lawyer said that if they paid him to goto K2 and then it turns out to be a deception then they have the right to demand their money back.

Another sponsor though is behind Stangl for the moment. The company is called Knauf. They have said that they will be sticking with him. Discussions will be held though to see what the future holds for the mountaineer.

Source: ORF