Weather stops attempt to goto camp 3

February 7, 2018

Climbers from the Polish Winter Expedition have temporarily abandoned their attempt to goto C3. The weather was described as windy and very cold and this is what prevented them from reaching higher. Some of the climbers in base camp include Darek Załuski, Denis Urubko and Marcin Kaczkan.

Maciek Bedrejczuk is staying at C1 tonight.

The strength of the winds will determine the plan for climbing tomorrow.

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Urubko and Kaczkan climb towards camp 3

February 6, 2018

Denish Urubko and Marcin Kaczkan have headed towards C3 after spending the night at C2. This will be the furthest that any climbers from the Polish winter expedition have gone so far.

Climbers head towards camp 2

February 5, 2018

Denis Urubko and Marcin Kaczkan are climbing towards C2. They spent the night at C1 last night. The other members of the expedition are all at base camp.

The winds are expected to pick up in the afternoon and make climbing more difficult.

Urubko and Kaczkan are at C1

February 4, 2018

Both Denis Urubko and Marcin Kaczkan have climbed to C1 and will be spending the night there. Tomorrow will be decided if they are to go any further to C2.

C1 is a very small camp, and was intended as a stepping stone for C1. But it can handle 2 climbers.

Polish Winter Expedition Facebook

Strong winds force some climbers to descend

February 3, 2018

Artur Małek  and Marek Chmielarski have descended to base camp after having reached C2 on the Cesen route. Strong winds up to 100km/h have been reported. There was also a blizzard.

Polish Winter Expedition Facebook

 

Climbers reach camp 2 on K2 as other climbers rejoin at base camp

February 2, 2018

A slowing of the winds has allowed some climbers to reach C2 on the Cesen route of K2. The climbers who reached there were Artur Małek  and Marek Chmielarski. They had stayed at C1 the previous night and then moved to C2 the next day. Two other climbers went from base camp to C1:  Janusz and Maciek. The conditions on the route have been described as difficult.

A helicopter moved climbers from Skardu to base camp. They were said to be in good condition.

Polish Winter Expedition Facebook

Climbers still in Skardu

February 2, 2018

At the moment weather has not permitted K2 climbers to rejoin the expedition at base camp. They plan to use a helicopter to go there, but weather has made that impossible. At base camp there have been reported strong winds both at the camp and higher up at the camps on K2.

Denis Urubko said that he has been training in the meantime at Skardu.

Denis Urubko Facebook

Climbers will take helicopter back to K2

January 31, 2018

Denis Urubko has said in an interview with Desnivel that the climbers at Skardu are going to fly back to K2 base camp by helicopter. He expects that it will be a few days before they are back there because of worsening weather.

As for rescuing Elisabeth Revol, he said that the helicopter dropped him and Adam off at C2 on Nanga Parbat. They climbed past C2 before seeing Revol. He said said that they aided her climb down because her frostbite would have meant it would have been harder for her to hold onto the ropes on the way down. They did make camp at C2 and provide water and medical aid for her.

He said that the weather forecast was for worsening conditions on that mountain which made them have to make the hard decision not to rescue Tomek Mackiewicz.

He said that he is expecting better climbing conditions on K2 at the start of February and is optimistic they can reach the top.

Polish climbers arrive in Skardu

January 29, 2018

Four of the climbers from the Polish winter expedition to K2 are now in Skardu after having rescued Elisabeth Revol on Nanga Parbat. After the weather has improved these climbers will join up with the expedition at K2 base camp. There has been no effect on the timetable to climb K2  at this stage.

Polish Winter Expedition Facebook

Rosen rescued by Polish climbers on Nanga Parbat

January 28, 2018

An incredible rescue has occurred on Nanga Parbat by some of the Polish climbers who were attempting K2. The Polish climbers were already acclimatized to altitude by reached 6300m on K2. They made a decision to try rescue two climbers they knew on nearby Nanga Parbat. A mountain as hard as any 8000m mountain and especially hard in winter.

Four of the climbers from the Polish K2 winter expedition left K2 by Pakistani military helicopter and traveled the 130km to Nanga Parbat. These four climbers were: Denis Urubko, Adam Bielecki, Jaroslaw Botor and Piotr Tomala. Urubko and Bielecki started the climb towards the two striken climbers. Whereas Botor and Tomala established camp.

Elisabeth Revol and Tomasz Mackiewicz had alerted their team that they were having problems at about 7400m. At this stage it is unknown if they had reached the summit of Nanga Parbat. Their ability to get down Nanga Parbat though must have deteriorated severely. Revol left Mackiewicz in a crevasse to shield him from the wind. He was suffering snow blindness. She went down the route to get help for him and to save he own life. It would have been a matter of survival for her in such a difficult situation on a winter ascent of Nanga Parbat.

Urubko and Bielecki were dropped off by helicopter well below the last position of Revol and Mackiewicz. All communications were ceased from these two climbers. But as they were climbing towards the last known GPS point of Revolt, Urubko and Bielecki found her. Revol apparently has frostbitten toes but is in reasonable condition considering the ordeal she went through.

At this stage the rescue of Tomasz Mackiewicz has been called off. He was last reported to be hiding in a crevasse from the wind. He was snow blind and suffering from frostbite. He would not have been able to easily to have gotten down. This has occurred because of the extreme height, general difficulties of the route and weather. It would have been a climb that would have put the Polish climbers at extreme risk.

The four Polish climbers and Revol are expected to be evacuated to Skardu. Revol will need medical attention. If the rescue of Tomasz Mackiewicz has been called off then it would be expected that the four climbers who went to rescue them would return to K2.