Archive for April, 2010

Rescue on Annapurna features some past K2 climbers

April 29, 2010

A Spanish climber Tolo Calafat is desperately stranded at 7600m on Annapurna. Some climbers who have attempted K2 in the past have been assisting in the rescue attempt. He has been forced to bivouac without a tent and cannot go down the mountain unassisted.

Unfortunately a helicopter flew by where he is supposed to be today but could not see him. He could have been bivouacked below the snow so it might have been difficult for them to see where he was.

Both Martin Ramos and Juanito Oiarzabal have had a part to play in the attempted rescue.

Martin Ramos attempted K2 last year but had to turn back at the traverse. He has been assisting in the higher camps taking equipment further up. He made the summit of Annapurna this year.

Juanito Oiarzabal climbed K2 in 1994 and 2004. He has the aim of climbing all of the 8000m mountains twice. Though in 2004 he suffered enormously from the climb.

How K2 has affected Juanito Oiarzabal

Exporersweb

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Piotr Pustelnik summits Annapurna to claim all 14 8000m mountains

April 28, 2010

Piotr Pustelnik has finally conquered Annapurna on his fourth attempt. He has finally completed all 14 8000m mountains after many years of starting out to do this.

In 1996 he received the Fair Play award for his saving of an Italian climber on K2. He gave him an intravenous injection which saved his life. He helped take him down the mountain to where he could get more assistance. Not long after this he went back up the mountain and made the summit.

Miss Oh Eun-Sun becomes first woman to summit all 14 8000m mountains

April 27, 2010

Miss Oh Eun-Sun has become the first woman to summit all 14 8000m mountains today when she made it to the top of Annapurna. There have been photos posted of her on top of the mountain. She was shown live on Korean tv planting the national flag on the summit.

It took her 13 hours to get from C4 to the summit. It was an extremely windy day. Previously she had moved from C2 to C4 so that she could make the summit on a day where snow was not forecast.

Some people in the past dispute on one of her summits. Her climb of Kangchenjunga has had an ongoing controversy about it. Only recently Edurne Pasadan claimed that she did not believe that Miss Oh Eun-Sun had made the summit of that mountain. Pasadan had been climbing that mountain too but was located at a different camp than Eun-Sun. Recently she says she talked to a sherpa who was with Miss Oh Eun-Sun and this sherpa claimed that she did not make the summit.

Despite these claims, the world at large will acclaim her magnificent effort.

She climbed K2 in 2007 with oxygen. She did not find it as difficult as others had found it.

Source: Explorersweb

Oh Eun-Sun expected to try for Annapurna summit on Tuesday

April 27, 2010

Miss Oh Eun-Sun will attempt to make the summit of Annapurna before the expected weather change later this week. At the moment she is at camp 4, and will set off early on Tuesday if all goes to plan.

She is attempting to be the first woman to climb all 14 8000m mountains. This is of huge interest at the moment with Edurne Pasadan and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner close to this tally also and attempting to be the first this year also.

Source: Explorersweb

Oh Eun-Sun delays summit bid on Annapurna

April 25, 2010

Oh Eun-Sun has delayed her summit bid on Annapurna due to strong winds. Another group had previously delayed their bid because of the weather forecast. She will be aiming to make another attempt on the summit on Tuesday. It is unsure if she has the resources to last that long.
Source: Explorersweb

Oh Eun Sun still aiming for Annapurna summit on Sunday

April 24, 2010

Oh Eun Sun still is on schedule to make a summit bid on Annapurna on Sunday. Her plans were to be at C4 on Saturday.

On Wednesday the following details were reported. She had passed camp 1 at 5100m. On Thursday she intended to go to camp 2 at 5600m. On Friday she wanted to be at camp 3 which is at 6400m, and then onto camp 4 on Saturday at 7200m.

She is taking the same route as Edurne Pasadan. They had agreed earlier that Oh Eun Sun could use the ropes that had been put in place by Edurne Pasadan’s expedition.

There is a large contingent of media at Annapurna seeing if she reaches the summit.

Source: Explorersweb

Gerlinde Kaltennbrunner will tackle K2 if fit

April 23, 2010

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has said in an email to Explorersweb that she will go to K2 immediately after Everest if she is feeling healthy.

At the moment she is attempting the North face of Everest in an alpine style attempt. Her husband is with her. This is a very similar attempt that she made in 2005. Once again she is attempting the Superculoir on the North side. This was first conquered by the Japanese in 1980.

This is a difficult route and far harder than either of the two main routes taken. In 1986 Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet made the summit in 1986 in just 31 hours in alpine style.

Source: Explorersweb

Team signs up for K2 in 2010

April 23, 2010

The first team has signed up for an expedition to K2 this year. This is the Korea team. The leader of this team is Cha Moung Kwan. This expedition is called Korea International K-2 Expedition-2010.

Source: Explorersweb

Marco Confortola recalls the horrors of 2008 K2 summit

April 20, 2010

Marco Confortola has given an interview about his feelings following the 2008 disaster on K2. He was one of the lucky survivors from that ordeal.

Presently, he and Pasang Lama are going to attempt Lhotse in Nepal. This is the first 8000m mountain that he has attempted since K2. Lama also was on the 2008 trip up K2. He lost 2 cousins.

He regrets telling reporters all that he did after the tragedy. He wishes that he had kept it to himself. The thoughts of the mountain still give him nightmares.

He went and visited the wife of Jumik Bhote who died on K2 in 2008. Confortola says that he was unable to save him because he did not have the strength to do it. It was a moving experience for him to visit her. She has a young child from Bhote. The child was only 3 days old when Bhote persished on K2.

Explorersweb

Race heats up for first woman to summit all 8000m mountains

April 20, 2010

With the successful summit of Annapurna, Edurne Pasadan has reached her 13th 8000m mountain and made it a tight race to see which woman will summit all 8000m mountains first. Although not officially a race, there would be alot of prestige to be the first woman to accomplish this feat.

Pasadan made it safely back to base camp after an exhausting descent from Annapurna. She was apparently extremely fatigued.

There has been word that she wants to quickly go to Tibet so she can start her attempt on Shishapangma.

Oh Eun-Sun has been acclimatizing up to camp 2 on Annapurna. She is expected to try for the summit on the weekend. She has been nursing a cold for the last few days.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner needs 2 more 8000m mountains to make it first. Her task appears to be the toughest of all as she will not even contemplate an assualt of K2 till June this year. She is presently starting her Everest attempt.

The list of the mountains these ladies have to climb are amongst the toughest of all the 8000m mountains. K2 and Annapurna are notorious for their difficulty and death rate. Shishapangma is relatively easier till the true summit. This is corniced and dangerous. Thus there is still lots of intrigue as to who will be the first woman to do this monumental task.