Archive for January, 2011

YouTube video of trip to Concordia

January 27, 2011

There has been a short video posted on YouTube about a party who went to Concordia last year. They went in August. It consisted of a guide, his crew and 36 porters. They led a group of people who had never been there.

Of course K2 would have been a mountain they would have been wanting to see. A few of them went to the base of K2. On the video you can see them get a jeep out of trouble; walk over rivers; and see a view of K2.

The Pakistan girl, only 14, is the youngest Pakistani to go to Concordia, the video claims. There was an American girl with the party who was only 13 years old. She also went to Concordia and is the youngest ever American to go there, the video claims.

Source: YouTube – Throne Room of the Gods


Dave Morton reflects on K2 challenge in 2010

January 15, 2011

Dave Morton has written a final summation of his attempt on K2 in 2010. He went with Adam Knoff. There are a total of 11 blogs from him about his adventures in 2010 on K2.

He blogs about the time they decided to not go for the summit. And also he blogs about the death of Fredrik Ericsson.

The blogs start from when they arrived to the difficult decision to leave the mountain without having made it to the summit.

It details the difficult decision on whether to make an ascent of K2 that would mean they would reach the summit on the 14th of August.  The weather forecasts though near to that date, before they set off, said that the winds would be too high.

In the end they decided to not make an attempt. They regretted not making it, as the weather on the 14th of August did not seem as bad as the weather forecast from base camp.

They spent 40 days at base camp and climbing up K2. They were hoping to climb up K2 without the support of an expedition.

He also comments on the death of Fredrik Ericsson. He said that the weather conditions were not very good on the day that Ericsson and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner went for the summit. He said that he and Knoff were happy to reach 7600m on the mountain before turning back to camp 3.

At near 9pm their radio started buzzing. There was another climber trying to contact them. It was Ralf Dujmovits, the husband of Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner.

This is what he says in the blog:

“I pulled the radio out of my pack and heard the voice of Ralf Dujmovits, whose wife is Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner. She is the Austrian woman trying to finish climbing all of the 8,000-meter peaks of the world without oxygen, and K2 is her last. I told Ralf I copied his call. Ralf said, “Dave, Gerlinde and Fredrick [Ericsson] left Camp IV at 1 a.m. and Gerlinde is now at the top of the Bottleneck. Fredrik has fallen past her only moments ago and she believes she has lost him. Can you please look to the snow plateau near Camp III to see if you identify anything?”

They climbed around near camp 3 and saw where Ericsson’s body was at 7100m. Then they sent word back to base camp that Ericsson was certainly dead and where his body was. For the next half hour they discussed their memories of Ericsson.

They collected their thoughts and decided – since Ericsson was dead – to reach their goal of 7600m on K2. They reached this at 2pm and then went quickly back to camp 3.

They also said that the rockfall was worse than other years. The conditions for climbing was more difficult than normal with loose rock. On the descent, on this time up K2, both {Polish and American climbers were hit by rocks. The American climber was briefly unconscious.

Morton still believes that the Magic Line and the North Ridge of K2 offer great climbing possibilities. The Magic Line has only been completed twice but in an expedition style attempts. The North Ridge has been climbed too, but not fully on all of the ridge.

In the link below is a search for the blogs of Morton. All 11 blogs about his adventures on K2 have been posted.

Source: First Ascent Blog

Also is a link to the blog where he describes the death of Fredrik Ericsson.

Source: First Ascent Blog( The events around the death of Fredrik Ericsson)

Wild Frontiers Foundation raises money on walk to Concordia and K2

January 13, 2011

In their annual charity walk this year Wild Frontiers Foundation raised money by walking to Concordia in 2010. They ended up raising 10,000 pounds for the foundation.

They have posted a YouTube video explaining their charity walk. At the start it shows the schools and people that the money will go to. Later the video has footage of their trek to Concordia. Around Concordia are some of the highest mountains in the world including K2. At the end of the video is footage of K2 mostly partly covered in cloud.

The walk was for 230km. They went from 3000m to 5000m. They had to endure blizzards for a number of days. But when they reached near K2 the clouds cleared and they could see many of the high surrounding mountains.

The money from the walk will go to remote regions in Pakistan including the Baleygon school.

Source: YouTube – Trekking to the Room of the Gods

Polish expedition confirms they wont attempt K2 this winter

January 13, 2011

The Polish expedition have decided not keep the permit they had for climbing K2 this winter. Instead they have a permit for Broad Peak and are going to solely focus on climbing this mountain. Expedition leader, Artur Hajzer, confirmed this to Explorersweb. They had intended to climb Broad Peak first anyway and they initially got a permit for K2 also, but were only going to consider climbing it after Broad Peak.

Since arriving in Pakistan they have been surprised by the forecast of cold weather at the higher altitudes. The forecast for 5000m was -32 C. They could not believe it could be that cold at that height.

With nothing heard from Tom Ballard also, it is looking highly unlikely that this winter that anyone will attempt to scale K2.

Source: Explorersweb

Source: Explorersweb

Polish expedition takes photo of K2 and other mountains

January 6, 2011

The Polish expedition have taken a picture that includes K2 as well as Broad Peak from afar. They are going to Broad Peak in an attempt to be the first to climb an 8000m mountain in Pakistan.

The photo is in the gallery on their expedition page. K2 is on the far left in the picture on their site. Broad Peak is in the middle of the picture.

Polish photo gallery