Archive for July, 2016

Why disaster was averted from the avalanche

July 28, 2016

It appears as if many climbers were lucky to be not hit by the avalanche that wiped out camp 3 on K2. Serge Dessureault has written on Facebook what actually happened and why some of them were lucky to be alive.

He said that the day before the avalanche about 12 Sherpas went up to camp 3 so as to start preparing for the other climbers from their expeditions. However, at some time that day they decided to exit back to camp 2 so that they could talk tactics with the other climbers. That night the avalanche happened and all of camp 3 was wiped out. No doubt everyone in camp 3 would have perished had they still been there.

Also he mentions what would have happened had this avalanche occurred 24 hours later. Many more climbers would have come up from camp 2 to stay at camp 3.

Serge Dessureault Facebook


More climbers announce end of their attempts to climb K2

July 26, 2016

It looks even more likely that there will be no summits this season on K2. There were only a few climbers contemplating continuing on after the avalanche on their last attempt. The handful that were look like they have decided to head home.

Nick Rice announced on Facebook that he has ended his attempt. He had been bitterly disappointed that others had given up after the avalanche. He thought that there was still a chance as long as others remained to help climb. He also thought that some Sherpas were taking down ropes which could have been used by other climbers.

Nick Rice Facebook

Jake Meyer has also said that he will be heading home. He seemed extremely disappointed with how it all turned out. He said that he was feeling extremely strong when he reached camp 3 after the avalanche. One gets the feeling that he thought he was strong enough to make the summit this year. He had previously tried in 2009. He also was hoping that some Sherpas would stay behind and help the last few remaining climbers to reach the summit. But all of them decided to go home, which seemed to disappoint him quite alot. He said that it is unlikely that he will be back. He has a wife and child with another on its way.

Jake Meyer Blog

Some climbers to meet over possible another attempt

July 25, 2016

There will be meetings between those climbers left at K2 base camp whether to mount another challenge. The three big paid expeditions are going to be leaving which will leave some not with them to decide on what to do.

If they do try to reach the summit again then this will be in early August. But a number of factors are against them. The avalanche basically destroyed all of the equipment higher up the mountain. There would not be enough of things like oxygen bottles, ropes or tents higher up. Also they will have to assess the weather and whether there is another window.

Controversially, Nick Rice has accused the Sherpas of taking down ropes from between camps 2 and 3. He thinks they might be doing this to sabotage any other groups of getting to the summit, because the Sherpas expeditions are going home. He is hoping though that they only take the damaged ropes down.

From his Facebook account here is what he said,

I have also heard that some of the Sherpas have decided to take down fixed lines between Camp II and Camp III, making it even more difficult to make any kind of attempt to reach higher camps and reach the summit. This type of behavior reminds me of something a young child would do… something like, if I can’t have it, no one can. I hope their intention is only to remove damaged ropes and that they will leave the vast majority of rope in place, however, based on my experiences thus far with these expeditions, I’m not very confident that’s the case.”

Nick Rice Facebook


Season over for K2 climbers, but many lucky to be alive

July 25, 2016

The season for climbing K2 appears to be over as a huge avalanche destroyed all of the equipment for many of the climbers. This avalanche wiped out all of camp 3.

Serge Dessureault has commented on his Facebook account wondering how there were not many deaths from the avalanche. He says that many of the climbers were to be fortunate at camp 2. Had they left the day before and been at camp 3 then all of those climbers would have died. He said that no Sherpas were going up K2 now and the teams have lost everything.

He has decided, along with many other climbers, to head back home. The window for climbing K2 was tight he said, and time has run out since they have little equipment to do any climbing.

Serge Dessureault Facebook

Climbing season over for most on K2 after huge avalanche 

July 24, 2016

After the huge avalanche at camp 3 on K2 most climbers are considering returning to base camp. Fortunately, there appears to have been no climbers at camp 3 when it struck. But one climber did say it would have been a catastrophe had 50 or 60 climbers been there when it struck.

Everything was apparently destroyed in camp 3. The Sherpas went up to the camp and saw what damage the avalanche did. Oxygen bottles were heard to be exploding against the rocks during the Avalanche.  All of the ropes, tents and other equipment were lost. Fortunately, the avalanche did not hit either camps 1 or 2. It appears very fortunate that this struck when no one was in the camp.

There is discussion though between the climbers about whether they might go on. This is only a few. They don’t have the ropes or equipment to climb the final sections though. Most big teams will probably be going.

Avalanche wipes out all camp 3 tents

July 23, 2016

Vaness O’Brien has reported that all of the tents at camp 3 on K2 have been hit by an avalanche. The way she reported it was that they must be destroyed. She did say though that all expeditions are safe. At the moment she has arrived at camp 2 after spending 2 nights at camp 1.

Vanessa O’Brien Twitter

One could follow Jake Meyers GPS tracker and see him go past camp 3 before heading back down towards camp 2.

Jake Meyer tracker

With the tents at camp 3 destroyed then it must throw into doubt many of those aiming for the summit on the present attempt.

Wind slowing down climbers on K2

July 23, 2016

At the moment there are a large number of climbers who are attempting to go further up K2. Most are at either camp 1 or 2. It has been reported that strong winds have slowed a number of them. Quite a few could not make it to camp 2 and are presently at camp 1.

Also it has been noted that because of the large number of climbers going up this has also slowed down the progress of many climbers. They are still unsure of conditions higher up the mountain and whether the recent snow will have any affect.

Climbers head up K2 on a hopeful summit attempt

July 22, 2016

Many climbers have started the climb up K2. There is a fortunate weather window at the moment and they are hoping that it lasts at least till the 26th of this month. If it does then they are hopeful of reaching the summit.

Some climbers are already at camps 1 or 2 on the Abruzzi ridge.  Some others are taking an extra day in base camp before heading up. There have been reports of tents being destroyed in camps 1 and 2 after some wild weather in the last few days. The climbers will not know if their tents and gear are ok till they reach these camps.

Company demands climbers pay extra for Sherpas

July 22, 2016

One of the commercial companies at K2 has been trying to get climbers to pay extra for the work of the Sherpas, it has been reported.  Nick Rice is reporting that the leader of the Kobler commercial company came to his tent and demanded that he contribute to paying the Sherpas. Apparently the company had under paid the Sherpas and the leader of the expedition was going around to many of the climbers at K2 base camp and asking them to pay to make up for this.

As Nick Rice reported though the Sherpas are there on a tourist visa. They are not there on a working permit. Thus if here were to give money to the, then this would be breaking their visa rules. Nick also reported that the manner that the Kobler leader talked to him was very condescending.

Nick Rice Blog

Climbers looking for another attempt this week

July 20, 2016

There looks to be another window for climbing K2 this week. There is an improved weather situation, but this is not expected to last. But even this good weather which is expected to start today, Wednesday, still makes some climbers wary.

K2 Mountain forecast

Serge Dessureault reported from base camp that there has been recent snow of up to a meter. He said that he is wary as he would want the snow to settle on K2 reducing the avalanche risk. He said that he is not sure what to expect if he climbs up K2, as there may or may not be high avalanche risk.

Serge Dessureault Facebook

Many climbers have reached camp 3 on a previous attempt. So many will feel that they have acclimatized. So a summit push would be their next aim.

Doubts still remain though over some of the climbers who have been going higher up on K2. There have been reports where other climbers have noticed that they seem to need more help than others. Also the sheer numbers of climbers still awaiting a summit push is about a 100. If there is clear weather at some point then there would appear to be too many climbers on the Abruzzi route, which may slow up many climbers.

Some climbers have already left whether through medical reasons or tired of the waiting game at base camp.