Archive for July, 2009

Americans to attempt to ski down K2

July 31, 2009

A team of skiers from America are ready for an attempt to ski down the slopes of K2. They intend to ski the Abruzzi Spur since there has been many avalanches down the Cesen, which has made that route not safe. The only parts that they will not ski are the Black Pyramid and The Chimney. These are famous and dangerous parts of K2.

Earlier in the summer Michele Fait died while skiing on the lower slopes.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner stays to attempt summit

July 31, 2009

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has decided to stay after her husband left the K2 area. She is going to try make one last try this summer before the window of opportunity for climbing K2 closes. She will be part of the new team of those who are left on the mountain.

She will be attempting the summit starting from the Cesen route. There will be a mixture of climbers going on either this route or the Abruzzi Spur.

New assault on K2 next week

July 31, 2009

The climbers that are remaining have decided to pull together and make an assault on K2 next week . They have had news that the weather is expected to be good in early August. The best day to summit will be Tuesday according to the forecast. This is when there will be an expected push by all members to the summit.

Jake Meyer says that early on Tuesday morning the strongest climbers will fix rope on the Bottleneck and Traverse before the rest set off for the summit. These are dangerously steep areas near the summit.

He said that in the discussions about this assault on the mountain that they talked about climbing the rocks to the left of the Bottleneck. But this idea was discarded. The only time that this has ever been climbed was in 1939.

The Bottleneck is the fastest way to the summit from the shoulder of the mountain. It gives some idea of the danger of the Bottleneck, though, that they talked about not going up it, but around it on the exposed rocks, which would take longer to climb.

Santiago says K2 may be impossible this year

July 30, 2009

After the latest attempt to go up K2, Santaigo Quintero says the mountain may prove to be impossible. He was with a group where at one stage the lead climber was taking 15 minutes to move 2 meters. It was the saddest day of his climbing career when they could not continue further upwards.

But Santiago says that he is still going for the summit this year. He says that his group have many strong climbers.

Ramos heading home

July 30, 2009

Martin Ramos is heading home after a frustrating period on K2. He has work commitments and has no choice but to go. He had earlier been reporting on the extreme difficulties and disappointment of not making it to the summit on his last attempt.

Confirmation Kazakh team back at base camp

July 30, 2009

The Kazakh team are back at base camp. They had earlier been attempting to climb to C4 in an attempt to get to the summit. The weather turned sharply for the worst. They are too waiting for a window of opportunity with the weather.

Bad weather at K2 continues

July 30, 2009

Jake Meyer says that bad weather has made attempting the mountain at the moment not possible. They are playing a waiting game. There is hope the weather will improve on the weekend or early next week.

Everyone, he says, is at base camp. Everyone , my take is, is more than his group, and probably is everyone trying to climb the mountain.

Sean Wisedale has no regrets leaving K2

July 29, 2009

Sean Wisedale twitted today that he had no regrets not staying at K2 and attempting to reach the summit. He added that it is too early to know if he will return. He said that he is still following the groups that are making attempts on the mountain.

http://twitter.com/SeanWisedale

Kaltenbrunner team to decide soon on future K2 attempt

July 29, 2009

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has updated her website to inform us that a decision on a future K2 attempt by their group will be decided soon. They recently returned after a difficult attempt on the summit.

Climbers reach C4 aiming for the summit

July 29, 2009

Everestnews reports that a  number of climbers have reached C4 high up on K2. This group includes sherpas, 1 Russian, 2 Kazakhstan’s, and maybe 1 Chinese. They believe that previous attempts to get to C4 had taken the wrong route and thus ran into trouble. They are hoping for 2 clear days of weather so that they can reach the summit then make it back to C3. Everestnews is reporting that the strength of most of these climbers is strong.

Mingma has 250m of rope to fix at the bottleneck which is the most important past of the upper part of K2.
http://www.everestnews.com/pak2009/k2george07282009.htm

An earlier report may indicate though that this attempt was not successful.