Archive for October, 2010

Trip by father and son to get a view of K2

October 24, 2010

On YouTube there has been a video posted that details their adventure to go get a view of K2. It follows their trip from landing in Pakistan. First they goto the Pakistan Alpine Club to get permits. Then they go from there to Skardu and Askole. From Askole they walk to the Boltoro glacier. They take along quite a few porters to get there and back.

K2 is not visible for a very long time. Eventually they get a sighting of K2 after arriving at Concordia. They trek to the base camp of K2 on a pretty good day.

Source: YouTube

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Meagan McGrath wants to return to K2

October 24, 2010

She said that she wants to return to K2 at some point in the future. When she returns from Ama Dablam she will start work and save for her next expeditions.

If one is going to K2 then one should expect that ropes may not be possible to be used, she said. They could be torn and ripped to pieces by falling rocks. Also they might be iced under. Because there is hardly anyone using them they could be under snow, or layered in ice.

To climb K2 one needs courage, she says.

Now that she knows what to expect on K2 then she will prepare accordingly for the next time.

Source: Explorersweb

Source: Meagan McGrath

2011 K2 fees

October 24, 2010

The Pakistan Ministry for Tourism and Government of Pakistan’s mountain royalty fees has released the cost for 2011 expeditions to K2. There has been a small increase in these fees.

Team of 7 to K2: $7000 US

Each additional member: $1200

This is an increase from $6000 for a team of 7 and $1000 for an additional member to K2.

As can be seen though these fees are much less that what one could expect on an expedition to Everest.

Source: Explorersweb

Kaltenbrunner heading to Carstensz Pyramid

October 16, 2010

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and her husband Ralf Dujmovits are about to start their expedition to Carstensz Pyramid. This mountain in in West Papua. It is considered by some to be part of the 7 summits.

The expedition will take 23 days. To get there requires going through thick jungle. The mountain itself is considered technical in comparison to the other mountains in the 7 summits list. It is 4884m high. They begin it on Sunday.

There still is no word on whether Kaltenbrunner will go back to K2.

Source: Krone( in German)

Source: Carstensz Pyramid

Young Pakistan woman wants to climb K2

October 9, 2010

Samina Khayal Baig has recently made a pioneering summit of a mountain in Pakistan and some day wants to climb K2. She is only 18 years old. The Pakistan woman wants to be the first woman from Pakistan to climb K2.

2 of her cousins died in 2008 near the bottleneck on K2. She and her village were devastated by their deaths. They were Jehan Baig and Karim Meherban. It was totally unexpected when they died. To her mountains are places of peace and beauty and not death.

She recently made a first ascent of a 6400m mountain in Pakistan. This mountain is called Chashkin Sar. This has been her favorite peak since when she was young. She could see it from her village and it was a mountain that she wanted to climb.

Source: Explorersweb

Serguey Bogomolov plans K2 attempt in 2011

October 9, 2010

Serguey Bogomolov has said that he will make an attempt on K2 in 2011. The Russian has much experience climbing high mountains. He wants to be the first Russian to climb all 14 8000m mountains.

He wants to form a team with experienced climbers who work well as a team. Also the majority of them should speak Russian. This would make communication less of a problem.

The plan is to climb from the north side of K2. This is the Chinese side of the mountain. Not many expeditions try to climb K2 from this side. Finding support is harder from this side.

Source: 7summits-club

Fabrizio Zangrilli documentary of the 2009 K2 expedition

October 8, 2010

There is a documentary on YouTube about the 2009 Field Touring Alpine expedition to K2. Fabrizio Zangrilli lead this expedition and is the main focus of the documentary. The video is in 2 parts.

The documentary starts with Zangrilli arriving in Skardu which is the starting point after the expeditions arrive from Islamabad. He says that it is a privilege to lead an expedition to K2. He says that he got the chance to lead it because of his experience on previous attempts on the mountain. From there the documentary details there journey to K2 and then the attempted assault of K2.

The jeep ride from Skardu to Askole was the best he had ever been on. He said that the road had improved fromĀ  2007 when he was on it. It took only 6 hours to get to Askole.

He said that his first expedition to K2 was in 2000. He climbed to 8400m on the Abruzzi Ridge. In 2005 he and a partner climbed the Magic Line on the south face but could not reach the summit. In 2007 he and his climbing partner climbed the Cesen route. They went to the shoulder but the weather was too poor to proceed. In all he said that he has spent a year on the glacier below K2.

Ultimately their expedition failed to produce anyone who made the summit. But all returned safely.

Presently Zangrilli is leading a Field Touring Alpine group up Cho Oyu. They will make another attempt of this mountain soon after poor weather and strong winds has prevented them making a serious attempt on the summit.

Source: 2009 K2 documentary on YouTube

Cecilie Skog Dancing with the Stars

October 8, 2010

Cecilie Skog has been dancing on the TV program Dancing with the Stars. This is the Norwegian version of the show. She said that she was dancing for her late husband.

In 2008 she made the summit of K2. But there was tragedy on the way descent. Her husband had waited for her on the traverse, being unable to continue on. She looked on in horror as a slab of ice fell off and killed her husband.

She recently said that she hated K2 because of what it did to her husband.

Source: Explorersweb

Jasmine Tours and 2010 Polish Broad Peak winter expedition

October 2, 2010

Jasmine Tours will be providing updated information about the Polish expedition to Broad Peak in the winter of 2010. This company provides support for expeditions to many mountains in Pakistan.

They said that porters are now supplying food and gear to the base camp of Broad Peak. It is expected that the Polish expedition will arrive in December.

The Polish expedition have also a permit for K2 and may only attempt it after Broad Peak.

The full statement from Jasmine Tours is below.

Dear Readers, We will up date you on the Polish Winter Broad Peak Expedition 2010/2011. We are the ground agent for this expedition. Right now we are send more then 200 porters load to Broad Peak base camp. The Polish Expedition is plan to arrive in December, 2010 in Islamabad, Pakistan.

Magazine has original Stangl photos from K2 that prove he manipulated them

October 1, 2010

There are a few websites saying that Falter magazine have obtained the original photos that were what Stangl originally said was taken from the summit of K2. The photos were somehow leaked to them. These photos reveal that the photo that he showed the world initially was manipulated and changed in Photoshop.

In September Stangl came out and admitted that he did not make the summit of K2. He said that pressure to succeed and stress had caused him to hallucinate making the summit of K2. He said later that the photo that he showed the world was instead taken at camp 3. But he said it was not manipulated and was taken on the date that he said.

The background in the original photo showed Chogolisa in the background. The Falter photos though do not have this background and show the background to not look like a summit photo at all apparently.

The date of the photo was also different. Falter apparently claims that it was taken on the 6th of August and not the 12th. This was a period when a number of climbers were going up the mountain. Those on the Cesen route made it to camp 4 and beyond. Those that were climbing up the Abruzzi Spur, like Stangl was, were held back by bad weather around camp 3.

This site was the first one to reveal that the photos had been manipulated. The unusual lines running down the left hand side of the photo gave a strong indication that the photo had been manipulated in a photo editor. Also the EXIF information from the photo showed that Photoshop 7.0 had been used to produce the jpeg final image.

The Falter revelations also back up Maxut Zhumayev and Torok Zsolt’s account that Stangl never even climbed up the Abruzzi Spur on the dates that he said he did.

When these original photos are made more widely available then these claims allegedly made by Falter could be verified. If they do have the original photos it would be further damning to the reputation of Stangl.

Source: Tages Anzeiger Google translated from German

Source: DerĀ  Bund Google translated from German

Kurier Google translated from German

This sites analysis of manipulation of the photo