Movie to be made about first 1954 ascent of K2

April 23, 2012

There will be a movie made about the controversial first ascent of K2. Director Robert Dornhelm, producer Norbert Blecha and actors Marco and Michele Bocci Alhaiqu will be making this film. The entire film has been filmed around Innsbruck.

The director Dornhelm said that he was not aware of the controversy about the first ascent of K2. He said that he will be presenting the facts in an easy to explain way.

Source: Relevant

Fredrik Strang going to K2 in 2012

April 22, 2012

Fredrik Strang is going back to K2 in 2012. He has been putting some videos of his training on YouTube. It has been reported on Wikipedia that he is going for scientific research. The research will involve decision making at high altitude.

Strang was on K2 in 2008 when there were a number of deaths on the mountain. He was one of the climbers who turned back at 8000m before the bottleneck. His decision making then made sure of his survival.

Russian K2 expedition members fly to Islamabad

February 15, 2012

All members of the Russian expedition to K2 have successfully made it to Islamabad. There was 3 flights from base camp at K2 to evacuate all of the members. All the gear was taken also. They initially went to Skardu. Vitaly Gorelik’s body was taken to Skardu’s hospital.

Source: 2011/12 Russian K2 expedition

Russian K2 expedition called off after climber dies

February 7, 2012

The 2011/12 Russian expedition to K2 has been cancelled after the death of one of their climbers. Vitaly Gorelik died after suffering frostbite. The frostbite was on both hands. He had been climbing up to 7000m from 28th January to the 31st delivering gear.

A helicopter was called for Gorelik but it could not arrive because of the poor weather around K2. They await a helicopter to transport the body from base camp. All of the other members of the expedition are now at base camp.

Source: 2011/12 Russian K2 expedition

Another Russian climber suffers frostbite

February 3, 2012

Another Russian climber has frostbite. Vitaly Gorelik has frostbite of his hands. A helicopter has been called, but due to the bad weather he has been unable to be airlifted out. Vladimir Belous had flown home several days ago with frostbite to his hands.

At the same time though the expedition has made good progress up the Cesen route. Iljas Tukhvatullin, Andrew Mariev and Vadim Popovich made it to 7050m via fixed ropes. Then they fixed some ropes to 7200m. They were unable to setup camp because they would have needed to cut into the steep slope which they weren’t able to this time.

Below shows their progress up the Cesen route.

Source: 2011/12 Russian K2 expedition

Russians persevere up Cesen route

February 1, 2012

Russian climbers have been making progress up the Cesen route on K2. Iljas Tukhvatullin, Andrew Mariev and Vadim Popovich have been climbing since 25th January.  The duo Alex Bolotov and Eugeny Vinogradsky have been doing similar since January 26.

A group of Russian climbers including Nickolay Totmjanin Valery Shamalo and Vitaly Gorelik started climbing on the 28th January from base camp. They reached camp 2 the next day. They were expected to push ahead above 7000m and make a place for camp 3.

Later in the week is expected to be worsening conditions with the weather.

Source: 2011/12 Russian K2 expedition

Belous flown out from K2

January 27, 2012

Vladimir Belous has been airlifted from K2 after having to descend with frostbite. He had frostbite to  the first finger on the right hand and three fingers on the left hand. He will fly to Moscow after leaving Pakistan.

Meanwhile the Russian expedition have had to rest at base camp while the weather is too difficult to climb. Nick Totmjanin lead a small group of climbers past camp 2 but had to descend because of bad weather.

Source: 2011/12 Russian K2 expedition

Belous to return home after frostbite

January 20, 2012

Vladimir Belous has been forced to leave the Russian expedition to K2 after suffering frostbite to his toes.

He was one of three climbers who got caught in a storm that hit camp 1 a few days ago. Vladimir Belous, Eugeny Vinogradsky and Alexey Bolotov were caught in a storm on Sunday and had little warning. Their tent ripped and gear started to be blown out. There was a risk that they too would be blown down the side of K2.

This has reduced the number of climbers on K2 to 8 for this Russian expedition.

Source: 2011/12 Russian K2 expedition

Storm destroys camp 1

January 18, 2012

A storm has hit the Russian expedition on K2. Camp 1 which they had set up in the previous days was flattened. Also at base camp tents were dislodged and went flying about.

So far they have reached as far as camp 2 on the Cesen route.

Source: 2011/12 Russian K2 expedition

First camp established on K2

January 6, 2012

Russian climbers have established camp 1 on K2. This was set at about 6050m. Iljas Tukhvatullin, Andrew Mariev and Vadim Popovich created this camp after the earlier efforts of other climbers. They stayed for a night in the tent.

Source: 2011/12 Russian K2 expedition


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