Vassily Pivtsov summits K2 and completes all 14 8000m mountains

Vassily Pivtsov has made the summit of the last 8000m mountain by reaching the top of K2. He has done this without oxygen and joined a select group of climbers who have climbed all 14 8000m mountains. 26 have now accomplished this.

He started with the summit of Gasherbrum 1 in 2000 and then the nearby Gasherbrum 2 in the same summer. And by making the summit of K2 on the 23rd August he has completed all 14 8000m mountains.

Summit number Year 8000m Mountain Height (metres) Route Oxygen
1 2001 Gasherbrum 1( Hidden Peak) 8068 Normal, Japanese Couloir No oxygen
2 2001 Gasherbrum 2 8034 Normal No oxygen
3 2002 Kangchenjunga 8586 Normal, South-West No oxygen
4 2002 Shishapangma 8046 Normal No oxygen
5 2003 Nanga Parbat 8126 Kinshoffer route No oxygen
6 2003 Broad Peak 8051 Normal No oxygen
7 2004 Makalu 8485 West Ridge No oxygen
8 2005 Cho Oyu 8201 Normal No oxygen
9 2006 Dhaulagiri 8167 Normal No oxygen
10 2006 Annapurna 8091 Normal (French) route No oxygen
11 2007 Everest 8848 Normal route from Tibet  ?
12 2008 Manaslu 8163 Normal No oxygen
13 2010 Lhotse 8516 No oxygen
14 2011 K2 8611 North Ridge No oxygen

This was the 7th year that Vassiliy has been to K2 and attempted to climb it. Vassiliy’s attempts on K2 are below.

1. 2003 – Polish Winter Expedition –  North Ridge

2. 2003 – Classic route

3. 2005 – Classic route

4. 2007 – Classic North Ridge

5. 2009 – Classic route

6. 2010 – Classic route

7. 2011 – North Ridge

Advertisements

5 Responses to “Vassily Pivtsov summits K2 and completes all 14 8000m mountains”

  1. Scott Dixon Says:

    I don’t mean to be disrespectful to anyone, especially these brave super humans before us, but can anyone explain their thoughts on why the summit without oxygen is such a big deal? I may be naive but it seems to me that the feat itself is daunting enough, with or without oxygen. If I were to compile a list of all those who successfully summitted K2, it would include all, with or without oxygen, with maybe a supplemental note as to which it was, with or without. My hat is off and I bow to anyone who has succeeded, period. Maybe those who summitted K2 without oxygen did not want to be uncomfortable while attempting this incredible feat.

  2. Martin Says:

    Not sure. No question I agree that summitting K2 is a huge achievement in either way. But I still think that the O2 makes quite a difference and it is worthwhile reporting whether it was used or not. In addition, quite often the O2 stands for the entire style of the expedition (porters carrying everything up, helis bringing the climber to base camp etc). In this respect this north ridge expedition was really exceptional- a 2 months struggle with mountain and weather of the climbers only. Many of the expeditions from the other side this year made a 1-2 weeks stop at K2 and trying to climb but without success. Zangrilli and Baranowska were the exception but had tough luck with weather (maybe they should have waited a few more days?) and also were to small of a team at the end when all others left.

  3. Scott Dixon Says:

    Thank you, that is very enlightening.

  4. Dromaludaire Says:

    O2 makes a BIG difference : it let you breathe at 8000m as if you were at 7000m. To use oxygen is to bring the mountain down to the flat lands and some climbers think that it’s nonsense to summit a 8000 peak as if it were a 7000 peak.

  5. Luthov Says:

    I saw Gerlinde and Ralf on German TV last week, they stated that without O2 at high altitude one has to breathe more frequently, hence the body cools down a lot quicker which makes it more vulnerable to frostbite.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s


%d bloggers like this: