Bitter Pompili vents anger towards Goeschl

In a bitter blog, Italian Giuseppe Pompili has attacked Gerfried Goeschl over the way that he handled the expedition to Gasherbrum 1 and even the permit for K2 this year. Gerfried Goeschl was the leader of an expedition that went to Gasherbrum 1. He also arranged the expedition to K2 that is now occurring.

Pompili had been climbing Gasherbrum 1. He did not manage to make the top, but other members of Goeschl’s expedition, including Goeschl, made the top of this mountain. Unfortunately for Pompili he chose the wrong day to make a summit assault of this mountain. He went the day after Goeschl and the others. The conditions that day were poor in contrast to the perfect weather Goeschl had to make the summit. He left base camp realizing the weather in the following 2 weeks would not give another chance.

He criticized Goeschl and the expedition in the following points:

  • That Goeschl was an expedition leader who sat back rather than went out and get personally involved. He was interested in making as much money as possible from the participants of his expedition. He only thought of himself all the time and not others.
  • Criticized all of the climbers who did not acknowledge the efforts of Louis Rousseau who laid the ropes the day before all of the other members of the expedition made the summit. In the end the effort cost him the chance to make the summit through exhaustion. What  Pompili is saying is that Goeschl would have known that this would have exhausted Rousseau.
  • Criticizes Goeschl for banning Rousseau from helping in the rescue of Marc André Beliveau 3 days later. This climber had cerebral edema on Gasherbrum 2.
  • Pompili says that none of the Italians that were part of the expedition made the summit of Gasherbrum 1.
  • He blames Goeschl for penalizing him and Adriano Dal Cin for not extending his expedition to K2. The CEO of Adventure Pakistan has borne the costs of that.
  • He blames Alberto Magliano for inhumane treatment of a porter. He abused this porter with words.

Source: Giuseppe Pompili

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