An update on what is known about the expeditions on K2 in 2011. The North Ridge Expedition have been updating frequently courtesy of Maxut Zumayev and he has been using a GPS to track his movements. But other news has been harder to come by on what has been happening.
North Ridge Expedition
They have successfully setup 2 camps. The first camp is near the base of the North Ridge of K2. But the second camp was difficult to setup because of the deep snow and the difficulty of the ridge. The second camp is at 6400m. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Ralf Dujmovits have stayed in this camp for a night to acclimatize. None of the others have yet to do this. This week they will be hoping to setup camp 3 at about 7100m.
The members of this expedition are: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Ralf Dujmovits, Tommy Heinrich, Darius Zaluski, Maxut Zumayev and Vassiliy Pivtsov.
Christian Stangl, Fabrizio Zangrilli and Kinga Baranowska, Bruno Buchet and Jacek Teler
It has been reported that Stangl is travelling with a photographer to K2. This photographer is not expected to climb high or even climb at all. Since Stangl wants privacy on his climb, there will be little news to trickle out unless he makes the summit . He says that his permit is only until the 15th of August because after that the conditions get harder and there is more rockfall. Rob Springer on his K2 blog said that there is only 1 climber this year on the Abruzzi Ridge. This might be Stangl as he has been here previously climbing up K2.
Little has been heard from Fabrizio Zangrilli and Kinga Baranowska since they have arrived at K2 base camp. Baranowska did update her website during the week to say that she was at camp 2 on K2. They might be climbing on the Cesen Route. She said that last year from camp 1 to camp 2 took 3 hours. This year it took 10 hours because of the deep snow. She was on the Cesen Route last year. They must be facing challenging conditions because of the deep snow.
Jacek Teler has been climbing on Gasherbrum 1. While Bruno Buchet arrived at K2 base camp a few weeks ago. It had been reported that he could be Stangl’s climbing partner but this might not be the case too.
Gerfried Goeschl’s expedition to K2
After conquering Gasherbrum 1 the spirits must be high amongst the climbers. Since then they members of this expedition have had to help rescue a climber off Gasherbrum 2. But they don’t want people to focus on their heroics. They are here for the sport of climbing and their next goal is K2. If they haven’t arrived at K2 base camp yet they will soon. This rescue may have delayed them. Once there they will attempt to find a new route up near the Abruzzi Ridge.
Field Touring Alpine
Members of this expedition have ben battling away on Broad Peak. The weather though has not allowed them a chance at the summit. Rob Springer is still waiting for a weather window, but seems to be keen to turn his attention to K2 as soon as possible. Sophie Denis has made a few attempts on Broad Peak’s summit with no success. She had planned to be going to K2 soon. But if she wants to summit Broad Peak then there might be some delay till the weather is good enough.
South West Face expedition
Christian Trommsdorff and Russian Alexey Bolotov were supposed to being going up the South West Face of K2. Russianclimb reported that on the 9th of June that they both met in Islamabad on their way to K2. There has not been any updates that have come through.
The weather forecast does not sound as promising as last week. Various sources have said that there will always be a factor that will make climbing hard this week.
Mountain forecast gives mixed conditions for the coming week. It forecasts little snow this week. But the winds will increase in speed. Summits would be hard under such winds. Also lots of snow was expected to have fallen on the weekend just gone, so conditions might be hard.
The Altitude Junkies expedition on Broad Peak said that there may be no summits of Broad Peak this year unless the snow stops falling and the winds decrease.
On Gasherbrum 1 Giuseppe Pompili said that he had word that the weather in the next 2 weeks would not be good enough to make the summit of that mountain. That mountain is close to K2.
“The news are that for another two weeks it will not reoccur the right combination of no vertical wind, temperature-altitude acceptable, absence of disturbances, low cloud cover, such as to enable a new attempt to the summit which has a reasonable chance of success,” Pompili said on his website.
Source: Giuseppe Pompili