Article mentions less expeditions going to K2 in 2011

There appears to be less interest from climbers to goto K2 in 2011. A report in Barrabes has listed some of the expeditions going there this year. There will undoubtedly be more news of expeditions to come but it does appear to be less interest this year.

Already it is known that there is an expedition of 6 climbers trying to climb K2 on the North Ridge in China. Three of the climbers include: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Maxut Zhumayev and Vassiliy Pivtsov. Each has so far bagged 13 8000m mountains and needs only K2 to complete all 14.

The two main routes up the Pakistan side have permits, but the article suggests that there is less interest.

The article says that Field Touring Alpine have a permit on the Abruzzi Ridge. It is more likely that they have a permit on the Cesen Route. They are a commercial expedition and will be going to Broad Peak and then K2. The main focus will undoubtedly be Broad Peak for them. Thus a serious attempt on K2 will be unlikely. The difficulty of summiting Broad Peak and K2 in one year is well known. The best bet is to focus on one of these 2 huge mountains.

It looks like Christian Stangl will return to the Abruzzi Ridge according to this article. They say that he shares a permit for it along with a Georgian. Recently he returned from Kangchenjunga, the third highest in the world. He is said to have made the summit of that mountain. If he is returning to K2 this year then he will be trying to redeem his reputation after the farcical faked climb of K2 last year. This will be his fourth attempt of K2 if he returns.

The team that attempted Gasherbrum 1 in winter will be going to attempt a new route up near the standard Abruzzi Ridge. This team will include: Alex Txikon (Basque), Gerfried Göschl (Austrian), Louis Rousseau (Canada). Goschl said that he has spotted a new route to the east of the Abruzzi Ridge and they intend to try make their way up this. At some point this will join the standard route.

Kinga Baranowska and Fabrio Zangrilli are going instead to Latok 1 in the Karakoram rather than attempt K2 again according to this article. Baranowska made an attempt with a Polish expedition last year on K2. Zangrilli was the expedition leader for Field Touring Alpine to K2 last year. They were recently trying unsuccessfully to climb Makalu.

Latok 1 is a peak noted for its extreme technical difficulty. They will be joined by other climbers Eli Revol (France), Dodo Kopold (Slovakia), Ermanno Salvaterra, and four Italian climbers aged between 24-66.

The article does not mention Sergey Bogomolov who had been planning to goto K2 in 2011. He had said that he had the intention of going to the north side of the mountain and gather a strong team to tackle it.

Source: Barrabes


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