Kazakhstan climbers Maxut Zhumayev and Vassily Pivtsov will be joining Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on an attempt of K2’s North Ridge in 2011. The leader of the expedition will be Kaltenbrunner’s husband Ralf Dujmovits. There will also be a climber who will record video on the expedition – Darek Zaluski from Poland. And there will be a photographer from Argentina who will be taking the pictures for them – Tommy Heinrich.
The trip will be sponsored by National Geographic.
This will mean that there will be 3 climbers in this group who have made 13 8000m summits. In terms of potential achievements this climbing group will be the one to watch to see if all three can climb K2 and complete all 14 8000m mountains.
Last year they went up the Cesen route. They arrived late in the climbing season but this tactic did not work out.
Maxut lists the equipment electronic that he is taking with him:
• GPS Spot
• Canon PowerShot SX230 HS digital camera.
• Satellite terminal system for sending updates to the web
• Thuraya satellite phone
What is also interesting is that Maxut said that there will be a live broadcast of the summit of K2 if they reach it.
This will be Vassily’s seventh attempt on K2. Maxut has tried one less and this will make it his sixth attempt.
Vassily’s attempts on K2 are below.
1. 2003- Winter Polish Ex. North route.
2. 2003- Classic route
3. 2005- Classic route
4. 2007- Classic North route
5. 2009- Classic route
6. 2010- Classic route
7. 2011 – North Ridge
Source: Mountain KZ
Here is a list of Maxut’s successful climbs of 8000m mountains.
1. Shisha Pangma: Central (8012m), normal route without oxygen, 2000
2. Hidden Peak (G1) 8068 normal, Japanese couloir, 2001, without oxygen
3. Gasherbrum 2 (8035) normal, 2001, without oxygen
4. Kangchenjunga (8586), normal, South-West, 2002, without oxygen
5. Shisha Pangma: Main (8046m) and Central (8012m), 2002 without oxygen
6. Nanga Parbat (8,125 m) Kinshoffer route, without oxygen, 06/17/2003
7. Broad Peak (8,046 m) normal route without oxygen, 07/18/2003
8. Makalu West ridge without oxygen, 05/2004
9. Cho Oyu, normal route without oxygen, 05/2005
10. Anapurna (8091m) normal route without oxygen, 2006
11. Dhaulagiry (8167m), normal route without oxygen, 2006
12. Everest (8848m), normal route without oxygen, 2007
13. Manaslu (8156m), normal route without oxygen, 2008, solo
Source: Mountain KZ