Erhard Loretan made five K2 attempts, successful in 1985

Recently deceased great Swiss climber Erhard Loretan made five attempts on K2. He was the third person to have completed all 14 8000m mountains.

In 1985 he first made 2 attempts on the South Face. But these were unsuccessful. He switched to the more commonly used Abruzzi Ridge and made the summit.

He also tried to climb the West Face of K2 in 1989 but this was not successful. He then made another attempt in 1992 but once again met with no success.

This was from the following source:

Teton OuterLocal

More detail of his 1985 ascent up the Abruzzi Ridge is in a PDF in the Alpine Journal.

He was part of a Franco-Swiss party comprising Erhard Loretan, Jean Troillet, Yves Morand, Eric Escoffier, Daniel Lacroix, Stand Jean Francois Magnificat. They started their climb on July 4th. Loretan and Escoffier left camp 2 at 4am and reached 7400m later that day to be joined by others.

On the final summit day they left at 9pm. They took between 3-4 hours to cross the traverse under the massive ice serac. They managed to get to the top of K2 at 1:30pm. This was 15 hours after they had left camp 4. By 7pm they had descended to 7400m.

On the way down they met Schaffter and Lacroix who were going up. These two climbers eventually made it to the top of K2 also. But on the way down they became separated at about 8200m. Schaffter made it down safely, but Lacroix was never seen again and no one knows what happened.

Source: Alpine Journal


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