Dave Morton reflects on K2 challenge in 2010

Dave Morton has written a final summation of his attempt on K2 in 2010. He went with Adam Knoff. There are a total of 11 blogs from him about his adventures in 2010 on K2.

He blogs about the time they decided to not go for the summit. And also he blogs about the death of Fredrik Ericsson.

The blogs start from when they arrived to the difficult decision to leave the mountain without having made it to the summit.

It details the difficult decision on whether to make an ascent of K2 that would mean they would reach the summit on the 14th of August.  The weather forecasts though near to that date, before they set off, said that the winds would be too high.

In the end they decided to not make an attempt. They regretted not making it, as the weather on the 14th of August did not seem as bad as the weather forecast from base camp.

They spent 40 days at base camp and climbing up K2. They were hoping to climb up K2 without the support of an expedition.

He also comments on the death of Fredrik Ericsson. He said that the weather conditions were not very good on the day that Ericsson and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner went for the summit. He said that he and Knoff were happy to reach 7600m on the mountain before turning back to camp 3.

At near 9pm their radio started buzzing. There was another climber trying to contact them. It was Ralf Dujmovits, the husband of Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner.

This is what he says in the blog:

“I pulled the radio out of my pack and heard the voice of Ralf Dujmovits, whose wife is Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner. She is the Austrian woman trying to finish climbing all of the 8,000-meter peaks of the world without oxygen, and K2 is her last. I told Ralf I copied his call. Ralf said, “Dave, Gerlinde and Fredrick [Ericsson] left Camp IV at 1 a.m. and Gerlinde is now at the top of the Bottleneck. Fredrik has fallen past her only moments ago and she believes she has lost him. Can you please look to the snow plateau near Camp III to see if you identify anything?”

They climbed around near camp 3 and saw where Ericsson’s body was at 7100m. Then they sent word back to base camp that Ericsson was certainly dead and where his body was. For the next half hour they discussed their memories of Ericsson.

They collected their thoughts and decided – since Ericsson was dead – to reach their goal of 7600m on K2. They reached this at 2pm and then went quickly back to camp 3.

They also said that the rockfall was worse than other years. The conditions for climbing was more difficult than normal with loose rock. On the descent, on this time up K2, both {Polish and American climbers were hit by rocks. The American climber was briefly unconscious.

Morton still believes that the Magic Line and the North Ridge of K2 offer great climbing possibilities. The Magic Line has only been completed twice but in an expedition style attempts. The North Ridge has been climbed too, but not fully on all of the ridge.

In the link below is a search for the blogs of Morton. All 11 blogs about his adventures on K2 have been posted.

Source: First Ascent Blog

Also is a link to the blog where he describes the death of Fredrik Ericsson.

Source: First Ascent Blog( The events around the death of Fredrik Ericsson)

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s


%d bloggers like this: