Gerfried Goschl will be returning to K2 in 2011 but that is just one of his climbing expeditions in Pakistan over the course of the next year. In 2009 he climbed as far as 8350m. This year he did not return as he has a new child and been doing other things.
Winter ascent of Gasherbrum 1
This year he is aiming to be part of a small group of climbers to be the first to climb in winter an 8000m mountain in Pakistan. No one so far has been able to do this on any of the five 8000m mountains. There have been numerous tries but up to this point it has not happened.
The plan is to climb a new route up Gasherbrum 1. Finding climbers willing to come along was difficult, because it is such a difficult climb. But joining Goschl will be Louis Rousseau from Canada, and Alex Chicon from Spain.
The conditions for climbing are much harder in winter. The days are shorter, weather colder, and it’s windier too.
K2 and Gasherbrum 2 attempt in 2011
Both Goschl and Rousseau will return to Pakistan in the summer of 2011 and attempt a double header of K2 and Gasherbrum 2. He has already climbed Gasherbrum 2 in 2003. But he will climb it again to acclimatize for the expedition up K2.
Their aim is to climb K2 up a new route. Plus they want to do this in pure alpine style. This has never been successfully done on K2. He considers this way of climbing up an 8000m mountain as the most pure form of climbing, but also the most hard.
He said that he did not want to comment on the controversy involving Christian Stangl’s summit of K2. He said that it was under investigation and would not make a judgment at this point. But he did say that it was a very bad story.