2004 “Magic line” expedition

Explorersweb have a very detailed account of the 2004 attempt to climb the “Magic line” on K2 in 2004. It was a very brave effort from 3 climbers who showed so much character of the best of mountaineers.

At one point they stopped climbing the “Magic line” so that they could help rescue a climber on the Abruzzi Spur. But it was on the “Magic line” that so much also happened. Oscar Cadiach (expedition leader), Jordi Corominas, Jordi Tosas, Manel de la Matta and ‘Valen’ Giró had decided to climb it on the 50th anniversary of the first summit. It had been climbed only once in 1986 and even then there had been a fatality on the expedition.

In short, things started to unfold when only Jordi Corominas was left to try for the summit. The others had descended unable to go on in the difficult snow conditions. But he was doing it extremely slowly. At one point it took him 2 hours to just cover 20m near the summit. The snow was very deep. Though he reached the summit his chances of survival looked grim. He had been at over 8000m for over 2 days.

There was a Japanese expedition that had recently climbed the mountain via the Cesen route. they were going down the Abruzzi Spur and agreed to wait at camp 4 for him. Fortunately he made it there and felt strong enough to head to C3 where he spent 2 nights.

But there was tragedy awaiting one of his expedition climbers. Manel de la Matta had developed stomach complications and died on C1 on the “Magic line”. The prolonged exposure at high altitude was probably the reason for the death.

Source: Explorersweb


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